412 BHP...THAT WILL DO NICELY......

[rogerch]

Can't speak about new gearboxes, but. I use Castrol Syntrax 75W/90, and Australia is a warm climate.

Until I have substantial heat in the gearbox, the syncros are almost useless. I wouldn't dare attempt a clutch-less change with a cold gearbox.

I've never driven anything with a cable operated remote stick that has impressed me. One of my criticisms of the Esprit is that the gear-change is vastly inferior to the original Elan (1962) with a common Ford Cortina box.

Go! with an electronic solenoid system

Edited July 13, 2011 by Roger the Dodger

[bosbon_be]

Update

When it gets warm on a ''thrash drive'',

The gearbox will translate enginepower into heat and slowly warms up. Your upgraded engine has 80% more power than standard => this will give you 80% more heat in your gearbox. It is possible that you heat the gearbox oil to a temperature that it doesnt lubricate enough anymore. Maybe cooling the gearbox oil wil help. Ask Mike Sekinger what he does for his gearboxes on his high powered V8 Esprits.

Edited July 13, 2011 by bosbon_be

[mike_sekinger]

Gearbox oil cooler - Mocal oil pump and heat exchanger - feed from drain plug with a return/sprayer at the filler point.

Mocal Pump

I´m also using this instead of the TAF-X:

Silkolene (Fuchs) Pro SRG 75

Cheers,

Mike S

Edited July 13, 2011 by mike_sekinger

[jonwat]

Mike S said

I´m also using this instead of the TAF-X:

Silkolene (Fuchs) Pro SRG 75

About Silkolene PRO SRG 75 Full Ester Synthetic Ester Racing Gear Oil

A synthetic gear oil of SAE 75W viscosity developed exclusively for racing transmissions. This grade has a naturally high viscosity index (ensuring good low temperature performance) and excellent shear strength, as well as possessing an inherently excellent load carrying capability. The synthetic materials used for this formulation have an oxidation stability of 3 to 4 times that of conventional mineral oils, prolonging the effective life of the lubricant under extreme working conditions.

NOTE: Not suitable for hypoid applications.

Doesn't that say it's no good for the differential ???

[mike_sekinger]

I´ve never seen that cautionary note before..... the recommendation was made by Mike Haines Racing quite a few years ago now and I´ve been using it on my V8s since.

... off to make some calls.....

[mike_sekinger]

Interesting. Appear the disclaimer is there due to a previous failure with one application. I´ve been assured that there is not a problem with using this oil in a UN1 application.

that said...... I would always recommend people to use the Lotus endorsed lubricant:

TAF-X replacement

Sorry - enough of my nonsense and back to this excellent thread.

[DanR]

The UN1 series crown and pinion aren't hypoid .

[CHANGES]

Interesting. Appear the disclaimer is there due to a previous failure with one application. I´ve been assured that there is not a problem with using this oil in a UN1 application.

that said...... I would always recommend people to use the Lotus endorsed lubricant:

TAF-X replacement

Sorry - enough of my nonsense and back to this excellent thread.

Its not nonsense.... or off topic.....it is what this thread is about.....'making changes' by sharing our experiences and expertise we can make informed decisions not guess work....

As we all know i have made a few changes which i am sharing with you while i test them.... success is measured in results not idea's , But starts with them... !!!!!

On my gear box problem , i like the cooler pump idea on mike's and valid point by peter on heat generation through power. Mike have you a pic of the cooler rad / exchanger.

This may all be particularly relevant as my g/box is enclosed and has no circulating air other than what is channeled from the engine bay.... this may be my first '' boo boo '' .... but nothing a few 'changes' won't put right....

I am still also committed to improving the 89 model selector system . which way to go ? , i am unsure but a few design options are now available .... I will try to get the best result in the most practical way . I will keep details of every step and parts / suppliers for each attempt, so anyone wishing to do the same can avoid the pit falls.!!

Pic of enclosed g / box + engine bay... uuuhm ( might need a few mod's) More naca duct's ? bit close to the diffuser.. any idea's ?

[mike_sekinger]

The original transmission oil cooler was up high, fed by air from a roof NACA.... so probably not so helpful for you.

I would imaging that you could find a small space and fit one to the flat floor and get a cold air feed to it somehow.

Cheers,

Mike S

[MrDangerUS]

Mike,

Could you tell us what is the inlet at the top of the left rear fender for?

[mike_sekinger]

This was in provision for an additional oil cooler - either for the engine or transmission. Niether were necessary, so it was used to cool the rear casing of the transmission.

Cheers,

Mike S

[CHANGES]

The original transmission oil cooler was up high, fed by air from a roof NACA.... so probably not so helpful for you.

Finding space to fit extra's is a premium in the esprit , I don't think this will look right in mine, Thanks for the info Mike , I will try to find somewhere...

I have also decided to employ the later V8 gearbox cross shaft and selector assembly in my box.. After talking to V8 owners , it appears they do not have the notchy box problems the earlier models have.......While also in conversation with GTO engineering / Racing...i was informed that this set up is one of the methods they employ with the UN box's ....this seems to be the easiest and most cost effective way and proven parts are available .... So i have binned my other idea's and have now ordered all the parts necessary to do the conversion......to be continued

Edited July 22, 2011 by CHANGES

[CHANGES]

Quick update... Still waiting for selector parts on the box.. all being well they will be delivered to me at the Donnington show.. I have done another 300 aggressive miles and all seems well. Managed to turn the front Discs blue on extreme brake test with a small amount of fade.. but to be fair the pads in were only Mintex fast road and my test would have been out of spec.. I have a set of hawk race pads which i will fit after the show and test again..

If anyone is interested my Esprit will be on the PNM display at Donnington show this weekend , It will be on axle stands with access to various areas for inspection... suspension, brakes , engine etc... feel free to have a poke around...

Hope to meet some more new faces and catch up with others..

Dave

Edited August 9, 2011 by CHANGES

[sailorbob]

There's a note in the service notes stating that the it is not practicable to fit the V8 gear lever mechanism to earlier models due to needing modified water rails in the chassis; have you found a way around this other than changing the water rails?

[CHANGES]

Thank you for this info Derek, I was not aware of that issue on the water rails. Although one of my designs was binned for that very reason..

I assumed incorrectly that the V8 one would fit without issue. . However to change the water rails is too bigger job at this stage of the game (engine out needed) so other things must be done.. I feel a few more subtle 'changes' may be happening. . When i get delivery of the parts i will be better able to assess the situation . There is always a way around a problem the trick is finding it.

Who thought this project would be so much fun...

Thanks for the input

Dave

PS if anyone has a pic of the V8 water rails i would love to see them. it will help with design thought...

[sailorbob]

That little foot note in the service notes put me off attempting the conversion, I'd like to see a solution if anyone devises one though.

[CHANGES]

Derek, I will have a go and let you know..!!!

[CHANGES]

Update...The part no. for the one through chassis pipe is the same as the S4 the other A082k4273F is different.. anyone know what the difference is...pics if possible

[sanj]

I fitted the V8 mechanism to my '90 SE, the chassis water rails are not an issue at all. That said, I (well, my nephew and I) had to fabricate a new muffler bracket and RH shift cable abutment. It was far from a trivial mod.

[MrDangerUS]

Part III is nice, but Dave's detailed descriptions in this thread are much better...

Edited September 29, 2011 by MrDangerUS

[CHANGES]

UPDATE

I have not been able to fit the new gear change mechanism yet as not all the parts have come into my possession , delivery of some parts is becoming a little tedious and frustrating. But I assure you it will get it done eventually.

I have readjusted the original mechanism to a point that it seems normal now , but i do feel it could be made better.

On another point , I am still testing everything aggressively and came up with a possible weak point. I'am not sure if the extra power and torque are the contributing factor or it is just a faulty part but .:- The rear radius mounting on the n/s ( the two M8 bolts ) came loose and the tracking shims dropped out , needless to say handling felt a bit sick. .. On inspection one bolt had pulled the threads out of the captive nut and the other had started too , When i did this rebuild i used the latest fixing plate with captive nuts supplied by Lotus (new). it is this that has failed . They were only ever torqued to spec so should not have stripped by over tightening. I have now replaced with new nuts and bolts of original early design specification and will watch carefully ..

Has any one else had this happen ? or similar on either spec..

Dave

[Vulcan Grey]

I've heard of that happening on the V8's

[CHANGES]

UPDATE AND NEC EXHIBITION INFO

Radius arm mount

It would be interesting to know how those V8's that had this problem were driven, it may be a situation which comes only when the higher power level is used often and aggressively. I have done 300 miles with the old system some quite aggressive, no signs of coming loose yet..

Gear selector conversion / Winter restoration project

All my parts for the gear leaver/box conversion to the V8 system will be with me next week ,But as it turn out I have an Esprit S300 arriving soon to restore/rebuild during the winter months, so after the NEC classic show my Esprit is coming off the road until the spring and the work will not get done till then.

NEC EXHIBITION / DISCOUNT VOUCHERS

If anyone is interested in a close up of my Esprit and wants more detailed tuning info on how it was achieved, or what can be done to make their own car perform better and smoother , come and find us on stand 4 T 78 in hall four near the Wheeler Dealer Live stage....

This is the Northampton Motorsport stand and technicians will be on hand to discus your requirements.

They will have a working display which shows how the ECU and ignitions systems are set up along with Webber/Dellorto display for whom they are agents. There will be suspension display and info on the Hunter Hawkeye wheel alignment set up. There is also discount vouchers for anyone who visits the stand to discus their needs and what is needed to get the best from there Lotus set ups.....

Edited November 3, 2011 by CHANGES

[CHANGES]

winter update...

As this is a development work in progress there is always things that need refining...

Other than the gear selector upgrade which will be done after the S300 project is finished, I have decided to tidy up a few things that were niggling me a bit..

When we ran the boost over 1.4 bar we were pushing the spark off the plug, To overcome this the spark plug gap was reduced to 20 thou... this allowed us to get up to 1.5 bar although it was not strictly correct..

I now feel that it may cause some deternation anomalies low down that are not fully apparent in the data...

The solution was always to go coil on plug , This did not get done as cost and time had run their coarse and i needed to get some miles on the clock..

So while the winters here and i am busy on the S300, I have shipped the Esprit back to Troy at Northampton motorsport to have this work done..

Another point was the crank sensor, Occasionally it would take time for the ECU to find the signal . This was put down to the size of the trigger wheel and cranking speed. The later was addressed with a high torque starter but i was still not fully happy. The next step is to change the type of sensor , from a magnetic VR to a Hall powered sensor...

Hopefully this will cure all the issues i have with this... If not then the next option will be a special machined fly wheel with thy 36-1 trigger cycle ...I want to find out if this is needed before i fit the new g/box set up, if so then it could be manufactured and fitted at the same time....

I do realise that some of you think this is a bit obsessive , but i do like to iron all out the little gremlins , plus anyone who goes down the same road as me will have the solutions before the questions....

I will update when any result appear....

Edited January 9, 2012 by CHANGES

[nigeninja]

If you iron those gremlins out just make you dont get em wet,or you could have more gremlins than you can shake a stick at