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crankshaft oil seal


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Hi, replacing clutch and crankshaft oil seal and was wondering if I can use a liquid seal instead of a gasket to re install the assembly as well noticed some wet oil spots just above it where the metal tube comes down over the crankshaft near the breather top of engine

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You probably could depending on the sealant, but it's going to be a crapshoot. As it's not easily accessible personally I wouldn't take the chance and would use a gasket.

1995 S4s

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I am guessing you mean the seal for the cover not the seal for the crank shaft. The seal for the crank shaft definitely has to be the real thing. It isn't flat and it does a lot of work so there is no way you could do it with a liquid gasket.

With the gasket for the cover I forgot to order one when I did the job on my car and I used a hand cut paper gasket and gasket goo. I think liquid alone would be a bit of a risk but if you get proper gasket paper that did the trick in my case.

One thing to note if you are replacing the crank seal. When I did mine I didn't pay enough attention to the manual and I put it in flush with the steel of the cover but after reassembling I noticed that it should have been left sitting a bit proud towards the gearbox side. I can't remember the measurement and I am not near a manual at the moment but I would recommend checking before you do the job.

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That's what i did, cut out a gasket and used a sealer. Needed to know if anyone knows where that oil over the cover is coming from, there seems to be a pipe coming from the top into the engine and it looks wet just above the opening for the cover

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This area should be dry, no oil. This is the pipe to the crank case breather.

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Clean this area well

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Clean this too

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I use an anaerobic gasket like Loctite 518 or Permatex anaerobic gasket to seal this cover plate. It works fine.

The sealant is the red that you can see here

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You can use a gasket instead

P4100168.JPG

Travis

Vulcan Grey 89SE

 

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  • 4 years later...

I realise I'm resurrecting an old thread here but I have an oil leak in the bell housing to sump area that I think may well be the rear crank seal... :angry:

Is this a DIY job for a competent spannerer without any special tools?

Can it be done with the gearbox just pulled back or does the box have to come completely out of the car?

Not worth starting anything now...🍺

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@eeyoreish it can be done, as you say just by sliding the transmission rearward, just as a clutch can be changed that way.  The difficulty might come if you go to remove the pilot bearing, since that usually requires a bit more room for a hammer or a grease piston hammer combo.

Inserting the seal into the housing requires a press and a large round cylinder... well, not technically required, but very tricky without one...  Also, most people use a seal insertion tool to seat the housing without distorting the rear main seal, and that part would require a special tool and that would be difficult to use with the transmission in place.

 

Here's the kind of room you'd have to work with if you slide the transmission back as far as it'll go.

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Here's the rear main seal plate, you have to press the new seal in here.

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And get it lined back up.

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Travis

Vulcan Grey 89SE

 

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Thanks Travis. Does look like gearbox out..:(

What does the seal insertion tool actually do? Doesn't look that difficult to slide the new seal/plate over the end of the crank with a bit of oil to help it slide on?

Not worth starting anything now...🍺

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The tools helps centering of the seal by putting more tension on the seal. Further it protects the lip of the seal when you put the cover with the seal over the crankshaft flange.

I used a thick piece of plastic.

DSC_7818 websize.jpg

  • Like 1

Esprit Freak

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Twice!? I'm hoping to only do it once :(

Whats so frustrating is that I've only just done the driveshaft oil seals and refitted the boot floor and tailgate! It's not the £30 seal that's the problem it's all the work getting back to it.

When I come to disconnect the driveshafts is there a better way to do it that won't involve disturbing the new oil seals again?

Not worth starting anything now...🍺

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I did it once when I did my clutch in 2004, and then again when I rebuilt the engine in 2010.  I actually probably replaced it again when I rebuilt the engine after a head gasket failure and coolant in the oil.  it's not bad when you are already in there.

 

I do not seal the boot floor back in place... Since I tend to take the car apart for fun.

Travis

Vulcan Grey 89SE

 

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  • Gold FFM

I do it alone by hand. It's a bit awkward but achievable. Best to leave the box in the bay rather than fully remove it. You can pull it back and drop the rear down to the right between body and chassis. If the car's high enough the box will come out through that gap, otherwise get a friend to help you lift it over the top.

Separate the shafts at yoke/spider if you want to avoid potential seal problems - it's much quicker and easier that way anyhow.

  • Like 1

British Fart to Florida, Nude to New York, Dunce to Denmark, Numpty to Newfoundland.  And Shitfaced Silly Sod to Sweden.

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  • 2 months later...

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