Ian's S4s refurb

[sailorbob]

I must be really slow or something today. Is this photo showing the correct or incorrect orientation of the upper wishbones?

[Chillidoggy]

Yes, Derek, it shows the wishbone reverse to the service notes. Part of my measuring strategy, and head scratching session, which leads me on to...............

I'd been doing some more thinking about the wishbones, angles, etc. I'm now wondering whether it really matters which way round the top wishbone halves are orientated. And I'm coming to the conclusion that it doesn't, as long as the correct geometry can be achieved. The wishbone is a triangle, which pivots the balljoint to describe an arc, nothing more. If the inner mounting points remain identical, it doesn't matter what shape the arms are, nor how long they are, and therefore which way around they go.

Now, I don't have access to CAD, so can't prove that theory, and please be advised I'm not advocating anything here, I am simply curious given how one side of the car managed to achieve correct castor with the wishbone halves reversed from where the service notes say they should be. If I'm right, then there's just enough leeway in the shim and washer department to achieve correct geometry.

Anyway, new anti-roll bar has been ordered, as has new steering balljoints. Talking of which, one of them was an absolute nightmare to remove. I had my usual 'Big Bertha' commercial balljoint splitter on it, a 1 inch ring spanner on that, with it wound up  as tight as possible. Yet it still wouldn't budge. Splitting balljoints is my most hated job on a car, for some reason it puts the fear of God into me, a bit like the apprehension when pulling a Christmas cracker. I did give it some release oil, but suspected that wouldn't make any difference, which it didn't. Finally, I got a large steel punch, and a big mallet, and gave it a hefty blow on the side of the upright casting eye in an attempt to dislodge it.. One gunshot bang later (at which I'd nearly filled my pants), it was done. Bloody things, I hate them.

[sailorbob]

I  re-assembled mine with the wishbone with the reinforced outermost fixing hole to the rear. Once I eventually get everything else done I guess I'll find out if the the geometry is anywhere near close or not!

[Chillidoggy]

That's what the Lotus service notes say, and I'm sure it's the correct method. Apologies if I'm causing you (or anyone) confusion with my off-the-wall mental meanderings. I assume your car is also undergoing some kind of restoration?

[sailorbob]

Not a restoration (it just feels like it). I started changing the suspension for the Lotac setup and then it began suffering from mission creep with brakes, cam belt, valve clearances, power steering rack & pump and some other stuff.

[Chillidoggy]

You're having what I would call a normal time of it, then!

[Chillidoggy]

Too cold to get in the garage yet again. I'm not a cold-weather lover.

So instead, I've been studying the photos of suspension shim plates and shim washers photographs I have on the front wishbones, and reading the service notes.

I'd kind of like to get in the castor ballpark when I button it all up, and then just have to change the top balljoint shims, rather than fanny around with pivot bolt shim washers when it comes to the final set-up. Much easier to slot in a shim plate rather than have to remove the inner pivot. Unfortunately, the only thing I've got to go on is the one side that had a good castor reading, so I'm pretty stuffed, and will have no choice but to get the car mobile and have the geometry checked.

I was surprised to read how much shim washer/plate is acceptable, though. Up to 9mm of shim plate, and 12mm of shim washer. At the moment, I've got a 6mm shim washer, and 9mm shim plates in there, so there's plenty of room for manoeuvre.

Just wondering how much tolerance is in the chassis and suspension.

 

[sailorbob]

Quite a bit:

+/- 2.5 mm on the diagonals between centre of front damper top mounting and rear body mounting

+/- 2.5 mm between centre of front damper top mounting and outside centre of radius arm mounting

[Chillidoggy]

I haven't finished the front suspension yet, but the rad-pack removal job has commenced.

I'm really looking forward to this one.

[Jacques]

That's a great job. easy peasy, if you make a system to lower and lift it (later, on reinstallation), or have a few helping hands to lift it up and you slot in bolts, washers and nuts. I did mine completely last spring. To reinstall the Whole rad pack, which became heavy, hence the alunox story, which is now gone, I pulled a long piece of string through some of the holes in wach side of the rad pack tray, and had two friends, one each side raise it slowly. I installed the bolts then. Took 5 minutes, once I did this method. I had been trying for some hours the day before, with no success, alone.

my thread: http://www.thelotusforums.com/forums/topic/67095-the-story-of-little-red-riding-hood/?page=5

Prepare for some broken bolts, but all can be changed and drilled and swapped for stainless. Well, I did anyway.

If your fan cowl is brokes in Places, just brush it with acetone (nail paint remover) a few times, and it will glue back together. Works very well.

I am going to do the Whole suspension thing all over soon. I still miss some parts though. Are new arms available and payable?

Good observations on the shims and front arms, so I'll keep an eye on those.

Kind regards,

Jacques.

[fjmuurling]

I used 4 threaded rods with some nuts and washers for mounting the undertray.

I also made a small modification on bothe sides of the undertray, so I don't have to remove the oilcoolers anymore if I need to remove the undertray again. picture shows one side but did it on both sides.

[Chillidoggy]

Thanks for the advice.

Sub-zero temperatures here, and as being too cold makes me feel ill, the job has ceased for a while until it thaws out a bit.

 

The new anti-roll bar arrived a while back, thought I'd post a photo to illustrate the wear that occurs to the ends with it rocking up and down inside a steel sleeved bush. I measures nearly 1.5mm of wear at the worst point where it's necked in.

To be fair though, it's 60,000 mile's worth, and of course it's 20 years old.

Advice from Dave Changes is to put some PU sealant around where it meets the sleeve to stop all the shit getting in there, and acting as grinding paste.

 

 

[Jacques]

Hmm. Are those original new fans or are they rebuilt?

How about Spal fans?

Kind regards,

Jacques.

[Chillidoggy]

The fans are new originals.

When I bought the car, only one fan was working, so I replaced all three with those in the photo. Actually, even with just one fan working it didn't overheat, and that was in the summer.

[Chillidoggy]

Rad-pack job started today.

I swear there was some bloke with a hose on full bore stuck in the header tank as I was draining. The system should be about 5 gallons or so, I reckon I drained 5, mopped up another 5 off the garage floor, and soaked up another 5 in my boiler suit and clothes.

Rubik's oil-cooler ducts safely removed, both the forward fixings were broken. That forward stud has to be one of the biggest Lotus bodges on the car. At least it will provide an opportunity to have a look at the frankly pathetic horns., though.

Looks like there are two bolts each for the oil coolers, and four each side for the GRP shoe. Still wondering how I'm going to get to the hose clips for the engine coolant pipes without removing the steering rack, but that's for later. If the bolts come out easily, then I just need the wife underneath it so it lands softly and doesn't get damaged falling on the floor.

[Chillidoggy]

Nope, it's not going to be easy!

I need some advice from someone who has done the rad-pack job on an S4 or S4s with the Delco Moraine brakes. It looks to me like I'm going to have to remove the brake system pump and accumulator assembly to get to the oil cooler pipe fitting and the bolt which holds it on its inboard end.

It also looks like I might have to remove both the headlamp pods actuator assemblies.

PM me, or post here, please!

 

[sailorbob]

It's been a while since I did mine but I didn't remove the brake booster assembly. I may have loosened or removed the mountings but nothing more (I cannot remember exactly). Even with the mountings removed you don't get much play because of the rigid brake line. I definitely didn't remove the headlamp pod motors.

It's an a**e of a job with very little room to work in but it can be done. It's made much worse if the oil cooler unions have corroded themselves solid.

[Sparky]

Told ya, should have bought a GT3.

[top-plumber]

I depressurised and removed mine right out of the way. Unbolted the relay frame mountings as well if I remember and pushed it aside. the bolts to the oil coolers are easy enough to get but can be tough to move. plusgas every thing prior to removal. my oil cooler unions were easy to free up as they were not corroded to badly but I have seen some of the oil coolers destroyed trying to get them off.  I replaced all the 8mm bolts with s/steel flange bolts. while the rads were out I also replaced all the front bumper mounting bolts and spreader plates with aluminium spreaders and 6mm s/steel bolts and nuts. Made the top spreaders out of channel so the head of the bolt was captive and didn't need two spanners to retighten.

Regards

Wayne

[top-plumber]

Oh yeh... with the bottom rad hose. cut it about 6-8 inches from the rad spigot and put a straight connector in where it was cut. Tighten the bottom clip while on the bench and then easier to get at the new clips further up the hose when in situ.

saves time and swearing...

Wayne

[Chillidoggy]

13 hours ago, Sparky said:

Told ya, should have bought a GT3.

 

Thank you for yet another of your pearls of wisdom. Naturally I shall take your suggestion under consideration, if only for a fleeting moment.

By the way, how's your interior these days? Presumably after the inordinate amount of time you've spent on it, passengers no longer get their arses wet when it rains?

[Chillidoggy]

On 30 January 2016 at 10:15, top-plumber said:

I depressurised and removed mine right out of the way. Unbolted the relay frame mountings as well if I remember and pushed it aside. the bolts to the oil coolers are easy enough to get but can be tough to move. plusgas every thing prior to removal. my oil cooler unions were easy to free up as they were not corroded to badly but I have seen some of the oil coolers destroyed trying to get them off.  I replaced all the 8mm bolts with s/steel flange bolts. while the rads were out I also replaced all the front bumper mounting bolts and spreader plates with aluminium spreaders and 6mm s/steel bolts and nuts. Made the top spreaders out of channel so the head of the bolt was captive and didn't need two spanners to retighten.

Regards

Wayne

Thanks Wayne.

I reckon that's the way I'm going. I can get all the coolers removed by chiselling them and grinding, but it's installing the new ones that's bugging me, wondering if I can get any purchase on the oil cooler unions with a spanner with all the other stuff in the way.

Incidentally, if anyone is interested, I contacted Ralf Burk about a new Delco brake pressure switch. I thought if I took the pump out, that might be the time to change the switch. New switches are due in about 3-4 weeks, still at 220 euros plus postage.

[Sparky]

I hate you.

[top-plumber]

I did my oil cooler unions with an adjustable spanner. Did it with the wrench vertical and a tommy bar through the end hole. 

If the thread you cut off is stuck in the union nut I heard someone put the union in sprits of salts and dissolve the aluminium. Doesn't touch the steel.

[Chillidoggy]

On 31 January 2016 at 21:49, Sparky said:

I hate you.

They say the opposite of love is indifference, not hate.