Door lock not releasing

[Colin P]

Don't recall seeing this issue before. Just had to borrow a little boy (in a non Yewtree way) to climb in through a very tight passenger door so I could get the car out of the garage. The Dodgers door lock is only coming up half way when you unlock the car, which means the lock would not disengage. Seems to be working fine now but this is the third time it has happened. Before I just locked the car and opened it again and all was fine, but this time it would not open.

Any one come across this before? Fix?

Thanks

Edited September 11, 2015 by Colin P

[PaulCP]

Not exactly the same problem but the solution may help:

My boot lock kept refusing to release, it would try but I couldn't open the boot. I finally opened it by having the wife press the remote button whilst I applied upward pressure on the boot? Once open I sprayed a little silicon lubricant on the lock mechanism and it's now been ok for the last few weeks.

[ruccio77]

it happened to me also, several times

luckily, only for the driver door, so I was able to enter from the passenger side

no idea as how to fix it...

[JAWS]

Colin,

It sounds very similar to an issue I had on my first day of ownership. The rod for the door pin was slightly misaligned so it wasn't moving smoothly through the door panel hole. You could have accidentally hit it with your elbow so that it's become misaligned. It's a door panel off job to fix!

[gregs24]

My passenger door does it occasionally. I find a bit of knob action (up and down a few times) helps to free things off and then it works fine for a while

[series_one]

What year model - pre or post MY12 ?

[series_one]

if by Dodgers lock you mean the pin, then Pre MY 12.

 

Some part of this then 

 

 

[Colin P]

Hi, thanks all. I was on my way out the door to goodwood and just got back.

Sounds like perhaps just an adjustment issue, so will have a look. Will leave the window down a bit in garage fttb.

Don't know where the word Dodgers came from, damn auto correct. It was supposed to say "drivers", but yes, the door pin pre MY12.

Edited September 11, 2015 by Colin P

[Tris...]

Periodically have the same problem, and have had the door panels off when fitting new speakers, so had a look at the mechanism. Thought at the time it was rather fragile, especially as the door card has to line up over the metal Pin of the lock.

There is quite a lot of friction between the metal Pin you can see & pull and the fairing piece it goes through if they touch. That combined with the long unsupported length of the rod that connects the Pin to the locking mechanism means that in certain circumstances the pin can catch and stick against the fairing piece.

Teflon spray will help but I've found that gently pushing/twisting the Pin and getting it so it passes cleanly through the fairing usually cures the problem. Emphasis on gently, it is not a particularly elegant mechanism and you don't want to bend the connecting rod as trying to reset it will involve taking the door card off.

Hope that helps.

Tris...

[EuropaSman]

I just dropped my Launch Edition into Bell & Colvill today for its annual service and MOT. One of the jobs is to sort the baulking driver's door exterior handle (I didn't want to take the door card off just in case I broke something!). It's probably caused by a similar thing; when I unlock the handle won't come up, but the door can be opened from the inside.

 

Here's the link to a video I took on my mobile:

 

Edited September 12, 2015 by EuropaSman

[jordan]

this happened to me today, i had to climb out passenger door, door wouldn't shut like it wasnt catching properly then when it did i locked doors form inside, then unlocked them went to get out driver door and it won't open from inside or out. Is this an expensive fix or a long job ? 

[Al]

Jordan if you have the visible pop up buttons style (deleted on later models) & even although you think the pin is moving up and down fully, just gently try lifting it after it pops up.  I have had this issue on some of mine and it can be a tiny amount out (1mm) and it will not allow you to open the door.

As to a fix it has never been a big job but I always dropped the car off with Craig as going in for something else anyway and his boys are experts at it and the alignment.  Call him and he will probably be able to estimate approx. cost for you.  I assume you know he has set up privately now and not with Murrays.  Shout if you need contact details.

[jordan]

Cheers Al , I've already dropped Craig a message, yeah i know about CMC i was in a few weeks ago getting a new battery in the Evora, should be an easy fix, just a pain in the backside crawling in the passenger door, i will give that a try what you said though about lifting the pin once its been locked/then unlocked to see if that helps. 

[jordan]

I gave your technique a try this morning Al but didn't seem to work, Looks like a trip to Craigs next week when i get some free time

[Jmanji]

Looks like I have a driver door lock issue, the pin only moves down halfway when locking the car with the fob, the door can still be opened, and when unlocking the pin does not go up fully which very annoying, usually I can re-lock and try again and it works, but it seems to be getting worse.

Anyone had the same and know if this needs a new lock mechanism, I was reading they did a door lock re call somewhere? Don't suppose anyone knows if this would apply to 2010 evora?

 

[ruccio77]

Same problem here, for the driver door. Pin does not move at all when pressing the fob; it moves only with the key inserted in the lock (at least I can lock the door).

Mine is a year 2011 model; apparently, previous owner already had the lock mechanism replaced with the recall (at least this is what the dealer told me)

[Jmanji]

mine is intermittent, just been in and out a lot today and it worked perfectly for a change, perhaps it's a temperature thing, I did squirt some wd40 down the gap just to see if this eases things, there's a good thread on the other forum how to get the door panel off and if it gets any worse I'll investigate it more, another thing I did was to libricate all the door Lat he's as this could also be stiff equalling part of the locking issue 

[Ryanmt]

On the earlier evora the door lock motor is from a Kia (Rio iirc, maybe the boot on other kias) chances are the motor has got some water in and its corroding the motor leaving it a bit weak/sticky (the motor is the lowest part of the unit on the car so when it gets water in it drowns first).

Plenty on ebay for sub £10 so its worth a go

http://imgur.com/a/0pD37

Edited December 20, 2015 by Ryanmt

[Jmanji]

Has anyone actually bought and fitted the Kia door lock motor?

my door lock has given up now, it has been confirmed as the solenoid full of water on my 2010 n/a . £300 fitted.

would like to see if I can get this part and fit it myself, got to be worth the try.

[JAWS]

@Jmanji Have you ever had your latches/locks replaced under the recall service bulletin (334935)? I get asked each year when I get it Serviced/MOT'd but refuse as I've never had a problem. If it ever does fail, I'll then request the recall.

[Jmanji]

Did not think this would cover cars out of warranty, then a recall is a recall perhaps it does ?

[ramjet]

I thought there was a time limit on recalls? If you don't get the car done within a certain timeframe, does the manufacturer have to keep a recall open forever?

[blueg33]

Had my drivers door locked replaced last year. It wouldn't lock. I had to pay despite raising it with Lotus. 

[Kraken]

On 13/06/2016 at 09:33, Jmanji said:

Has anyone actually bought and fitted the Kia door lock motor?

my door lock has given up now, it has been confirmed as the solenoid full of water on my 2010 n/a . £300 fitted.

would like to see if I can get this part and fit it myself, got to be worth the try.

Old thread but helped me out recently. I got an actuator from a 05 Hyundai Elantra (rear door, either side will work, need the 5 pin connector version). Same actuator but slightly different bolt pattern for mounting. Probably fairly easy to modify (drill new hole in mounting bracket).

However I thought I'd check what was broken in mine before I did any drilling. Turned out mine was just a rusted motor. I 'eased' open the plastic casing on both actuators and swapped the motor over. Re-sealed with super glue and silicone. If I do it over I'd just open the actuator housing and check the motor. You can get them on Amazon for less than $10. I think it is the standard size with a D spindle (see photo). The swap took 10 mins, the lock removal and reinstallation was another matter! Hope this helps.