SteveV8s V8 (Big project in a tiny garage)

[Steve V8]

Would anyone on here have, and be willing to lend or sell the V8 service tools (2 x camshaft clamps and the front cover / intermediate shaft alignment tool) circled below.

TIA steve

[mike_sekinger]

Mine are out on loan, but I would speak nicely to Alex Carter (ASC Audio, Swindon) to see if he will lend you what you need.

I would suggest that you also take ask for the front cover alignment dolly - to the right of the flywheel locking tools on the board.

[Steve V8]

I've finally agreed a price with Zircotec for Ceramic coatings for the exhaust and turbine housings, still 4 figures but now half of what was originally quoted, I hate when company's do that, it just proves they're willing to rip you off.

It's being collected Tuesday so that forced me to get on with making a banking plate for the egr port.

Not bad for a carpet fitter I thought.

 

[Steve V8]

I've been planning to drill and key the intermediate shaft, my son had 3D printed me a drill guide so whilst in the garage today thought I'd have a go. WHAT COULD POSSIBLY GO WRONG.

 

 

[Steve V8]

OH S**T

Drilled through both pulleys and into the spacer. 

Should be OK, these are clamped.

[mike_sekinger]

Well done for getting a good price from Zircotec.

You`ll be fine with the seal/spacer.  It`s a good safeguard to have in place.

[Steve V8]

Stripped as far as necessary, early 918 engine intermediate shaft bearing recall had been done, a perfect sleeved outer roller bearing fitted in place of the original ball type, unfortunately the inner bearing that supports the rear end of the shaft was so knackered, that the chain that drives it had started grinding away the inside of the front cover.

Oil pump and PRV, look good, though the PRV looks nothing like the one in the manual, and how do V8 pick up pipes get broken? It's the most solid piece of plumbing I've ever seen, and thankfully doing it's job with plenty of silicon stuck in its gauze.

Time to raid the dwindling savings for another list of parts. 😭

What a fantastic piece of engineering it is.

[mike_sekinger]

Nice to see you moving on.  The depication of the PRV in the manual is not good. It should look like this:

[Steve V8]

I'm finding some interesting markings whist stripping the engine, and thought this handwritten part number and experimental sample label on the egr was unusual, especially as its dated 7/11/95. The fist V8's didn't roll off the production line until March 96, mine is a September 96 car so it seems a bit odd.

[Tim H]

Hi,

A question about the PRV, can you buy just the spring? I have found on other engines that the spring can loose its pressure through time and I have replaced the spring and it has improved oil pressure.

Thanks.

 

[Steve V8]

5 hours ago, Tim H said:

A question about the PRV, can you buy just the spring?

I believe the oil pressure relief valve (barrel, piston and spring) for the V8 engine is only available to buy as a unit.

I thought that under normal operating conditions the valve remained closed unless an abnormality in the system caused a spike in pressure. If that's the case I wouldn't expect the spring to deteriorate too much. I'm sure someone will know far more about it than me.

[Tim H]

Thanks Steve, On other engines like the Vauxhall c20xe which runs a similar process the relief valve comes in when the oil pressure reaches a certain pressure. This can be seen on the oil pressure gauge. Prior to changing the spring I was seeing between 3-4 bar in normal driving conditions. I changed the spring which cost from memory £5 and then I saw pressure improve to 4-5 bar. This seemed a cheap way to improve oil pressure and better lubrication?

[Steve V8]

A rather heavy box has just arrived from Zircotec 🤩

Can't wait to get these back on the block, I've not forgot @mike_sekinger dip-stick tube first👍.

[mike_sekinger]

Go for Gold !  Very nice.

[Steve V8]

Man Jewels back from vapour blasting, and the block finally painted, after hours of meticulous cleaning, then more hours of drilling out those broken stainless steel exhaust manifold studs.

[jonwat]

12 hours ago, Steve V8 said:

then more hours of drilling out those broken stainless steel exhaust manifold studs.

I always thought the whole point of SS studs & bolts was they wouldn't seize in the threads?

PS: Great work

Edited August 30, 2023 by jonwat

[Steve V8]

1 hour ago, jonwat said:

always thought the whole point of SS studs & bolts was they wouldn't seize in the threads?

PS: Great work

Opposite Jon, stainless and aluminium baaaad.

The manual states that Stainless studs are used specifically on the V8 to reduce sonic shock. 

[jonwat]

Bloody hedgehogs 

Have you watched the videos on YouTube where they remove broken studs by welding nuts onto them? The heat of the welding loosens the grip & allows them to be unscrewed with a spanner.

Edited August 30, 2023 by jonwat

[Steve V8]

2 hours ago, jonwat said:

Bloody hedgehogs 

Hahaha, it didn't "ring" a bell straight away. 🤣 

I had to replace 9 of 18 broken studs in total, three were long enough to cut a thread and use heat and double nuts, Welding on nuts was the next thing I tried, that worked on another couple when there was enough stud to grip the nut. A TIG welder may have worked with stainless but I don't have one. The remaining 4 very carefully drilling with lefthanded carbide bits, 1 helicoil required.

[Giniw]

1 hour ago, Steve V8 said:

A TIG welder may have worked with stainless but I don't have one.

A MAG welder (steel wire+argon/CO2) can weld steel on stainless, the only issue is that there is a carbon addition to the melted stainless so it could rust afterwards (near the weld). And obviously the weld is made of steel, so ... But it still welds, and if you scrap the studs afterwards I guess it doesn't matter at all anyway.

 

8 hours ago, jonwat said:

I always thought the whole point of SS studs & bolts was they wouldn't seize in the threads?

Stainless steel bolts (A2 or A4) are weaker than standard 8.8 automotive grade bolts, plus there is a risk of galvanic corrosion, so it's not the best idea in my opinion.

[Chillidoggy]

Having worked in the marine environment for a very long time, I’d disagree. In my experience, stainless steel and aluminium is fine for use on engines that don’t get immersed in seawater. And I’ve had more broken mild steel studs than stainless, usually because they’re rusted through. But you make your own choices.

[Steve V8]

3 hours ago, Chillidoggy said:

I’d disagree. In my experience, stainless steel and aluminium is fine for use on engines that don’t get immersed in seawater.

Had you seen the state of this engine? It looked like it had been at the bottom of the sea for the last 27 years.

[Chillidoggy]

Given the age of it, it about right to me, Steve! Now get on with it, man!

[Giniw]

21 hours ago, Chillidoggy said:

Having worked in the marine environment for a very long time, I’d disagree. In my experience, stainless steel and aluminium is fine for use on engines that don’t get immersed in seawater. And I’ve had more broken mild steel studs than stainless, usually because they’re rusted through. But you make your own choices.

Stainless steel & aluminium I don't know, actually I was more generic than that as, as far as I know there is a potential galvanic corrosion between steel and stainless steel. But if stainless steel & aluminium is fine, then it's nice to know!

Quote

And I’ve had more broken mild steel studs than stainless

But maybe you have worked with less stainless steel than mild steel? (real question ^^)

 

[Chillidoggy]

Just having two dissimilar metals together is not normally a problem. It’s when an electrolyte is present that the party gets going.

Have I worked with less stainless steel than mild steel? No.