snowrx

My 910 ('85 LC but with 8:1 pistons) is now running 107's on 104/104 MOP. My EFI intake runners are 1.4" longer than the original carbs, and I'm running the Alunox exhaust into a small twin-scroll turbo. Do you think the 110 exhaust pully is for me? I have one on hand if a 104in/110ex curve looks better than the 104/104. Thanks for posting up your results!

Found on google, but shipping is $22 USD + for one connector from the UK.

Wordle 227 2/6 🟨🟨🟩⬜🟩 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩

Penetrating oil or acetone/ATF blend around the studs for a good soak. Any sticking would be due to corrosion packed around the studs, I would think the iron manifold would pop right off the aluminum head.

I can find All the yellow , Bahh! Wordle 223 4/6 ⬜🟨⬜⬜🟨 🟨⬜⬜🟨⬜ ⬜⬜🟨🟨🟨 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩

I got one in two once, felt like I'd pulled the handle a slot machine. Next anti-virus scan cleared out my score recording cookie. Mom got a two and is now addicted, at least its just once a day.

On my car the initial vacuum tee looks to be just over my throttle foot. A view of the linkage/vacuum stuff from the passenger floor.

Left knob runs the heater valve with a cable, right knob cable goes to a monkey-motion linkage on the rear of the heater box that incorporates two(?) vacuum valves to control cowl flap and one inside flap, not sure if the linkage is directly connected to a mechanical flap as well. The valves are connected to the line from the rear and the canisters with molded rubber elbows that get old and slip off. Glue or zip tie to keep them in place. Anyway, no vacuum, no flaps moving. You should be able to see some of it from the passenger Lotus position, or if the stereo comes out easily, through that hole.

You probably wont be driving that highway today! A January fire to note the California wildfire season is now year round.

Stainless has a tendency to gall, especially if someone has changed the studs to stainless also.

When it comes time to get the nuts back off, any cost of anti-corrosion measures will seem trivial! But there's lots of hardware out there, there should be many versions of the common M10 x 1.5 for the high heat application if you shop around. I used inexpensive copper coated flange nuts, but I'm guessing the pricy stuff should be better. Use some high temp anti-seize compound on reassembly. If you want cheap: https://www.ebay.com/itm/114752638662?hash=item1ab7ca4ec6:g:SE4AAOSwWJJgaZ20

You might want to use your car's fuel pump to empty the tanks as much as possible before you open up the lower plumbing. Safer than draining it in bulk if you can pull a fuel line and pump right into your cans. Keep your battery charged.

I replaced mine when I switched to EFI, it wasn't to bad with the engine out.

You may be able to get in the flasher socket with a jeweler's screwdriver and tighten up the metal connectors (just a little bit) to get a better grip on the flasher blades. The connectors come out the back of the fuse block, but I've not been motivated enough yet to see what access is like back there. Where did you find a new flasher? Those were hard to find last time I looked.

Well for what it's worth here's what a LHD USA car looks like. Ignore the vacuum pump on the right side of the left side shot (2) and it's wires.

Perils of progress, I guess. A pet peeve of mine, that the energy efficiency of LED's is negated by making CAN bulbs into into heaters just to tell the car there's a bulb in place. I would assume that unless you live in traffic that an indicator bulb's duty cycle is low enough to not melt anything?

Not up to speed on Evora, but could you avoid the hyperflash by using an electronic flasher, and then use non-resistor bulbs that did not have to dump voltage as heat? Or would the Car's computer have a fit about low current draw in the circuit?

Don't have a village, but do have bears!

A proper four seasons here so the other car has to be prepared- my Snowrx. Studded Hakkapelitta's and a bunch of STi bits make for a decent snow car. Two decades from new means lots of brakes and suspension sacrificed to the salt gremlins though.

I don't need my phone to drive, but made a temporary mount to slip on my G-car console for suction cup mounts. I just cut it out of a piece of stainless, probably a tea tray or such that the wife won't miss.

I think you'll find posts on lotustalk regarding the switch. They all have exposed copper contacts that could use a cleaning after almost 40 years, you might luck out with that. Easy to disassemble once they're out, but take care with the old brittle plastic. I made a new rocker for my switch, but someone has a nylon printed replacement available on Shapeways. There's a Land Rover switch with similar size and contacts that will work, but not look original. TR-7 has a switch that looks close to the same but the pins are different.

Without looking at the wiring diagram and assuming the 84 is same as an 85: Indicators and hazards wire though the same switch, which has been know to break internally (repairable) and use a nontypical (5?) pin electronic relay. Check to see if you have the correct one installed. As Carbuff says start by swapping out headlight relays with known good ones of the right type (changeover or dual contact) Relay sockets might need cleaning / inspection. Interior and door lights run off the doorjamb switches, which can be removed and cleaned if they aren't switching, and then to a (yellow) delay unit behind the glovebox. The interior light pivots to switch on/off/doors

I tried to get a photo of my 85's switch in place, but I would need to pull out a bunch of ducts to get to it and I gave up. Looks like an endoscope job!

It is big and bulbous, for a Lotus. But, alas so am I and I want one, just not enough to put the Esprit out of the garage at this point.

Given it's a Caterham, more likely after she's been aboard!