snowrx

That tube looks round where it's welded to the flange. Is that the case, does it transition to the port shape within the depth of the flange?

If there's a relay in the fan circuit on the S1, I'd swap that out as a quick check before I dove in any deeper. Check the blade sockets whilst it's out, sometimes they'll back out or corrode.

Don't miss the days of lying on the ice with a transmission on my chest, worming my way out from under a truck. My first domestic slab of concrete was a blessing, even more so when I built a garage over it!

I went with the JAE guy because I was getting the liners and pistons from them also, and it saved me another trip to the city. I agree the clamping of the symmetrical liners seems less important than for an irregular cast (or girdled) block. Here's a detail of my bottom plate. I also countersunk the corners of the top plate so it would not slip off the studs.

JAE recommended a machinist in California that has a fixture to bore liners under a torque plate, if you're interested. Liner puller is not hard to fabricate, a plate to fit in/under the liner, a plate to span the head studs, and threaded rod between. I'd offer to send mine up on loan, but I think the cross border postage would be prohibitive. ( ignore the liner hold-down block in the photo, just showing how it fits)

.72 GBP per regular 87 octane liter here in Idaho, not nationally known for cheap gas. But it's gonna go up, thanks Vlad. Our GOP is arguing "energy independence" means exporting domestic fuel; wait, hold the presses, they want "Energy Dominance" now.

I once drove an embarrassing distance with my alternator belt on the smaller of my two crank pully diameters....

I would try a dial indicator on the back of the cam pully, but given the small measurement range, you might see flex in the pulley if you use it to move the cam back and forth. Back is simple, just a block and prybar between the bulkhead and cam bolt, but moving the cam forward might need a careful pry between the cam carrier and the center of the pully hub as you watch the dial. I'll confess that when I did this, I assumed the new end cap would have the same depth as the old one and just re-used the existing thrust washer, making a bushing to make up the difference in ID between new bolt (12) and old spindle (50). JAE had the cap in stock.

Borg Warner offers a stainless turbine housing, which avoids the worst of the rust, but I to am curious about owners experiences with turbo blankets, given our turbo is basically kept in a plastic box.

Not my photo,(from Mr. Kemp?) I think these are arranged early to late. My federal 1985 910 has the bent heater elbow oriented at 3 o'clock rather than the straight out nipple.

Looks like a good case for an LED over incandescent. Someone tried a brighter (hotter) bulb?

I went around a few of those rotations, and tried a different alternator before I realized I had jostled the charging light bulb out of its socket in the opposite end of the car.....

I replaced mine with an AL49X (~$100USD rebuilt), seems to do a good job and Bosch parts are easier to find for me when it does need a fix.

Those look like stinging nettles, natures Organic anti-theft device.

Septic line backed up in the worst time of year. Not only get to mop out the basement, but the tank is under 5' of glaciated snow from the roof in this healthy snow year. I did find it first try at least.

Did someone say electric? Note the beverage can for scale "The newly announced "Terrier" power unit features two of these Quark motors packaged around the fancy David inverter. The result is a plug-and-play EV power unit that puts out 670 hp / 886 lb-ft of torque and weighs less than 200 pounds, and also offers cross-axle torque vectoring performance. The output shafts are equipped with planetary gear sets, and the unit can be even mounted directly to a vehicle chassis—no subframe required. Koenigsegg believes there are extensive applications for the compact, high-power unit, including boats and aviation, where it could replace high-revving engines that normally require additional gearing, providing a lighter and less complex solution."

I think this is the OE stud from my '85 910 LC engine.

I've read that there were two styles of studs, later engines had supposedly better items with a dimpled end. With regard to my above postings, actual measured CR was 8.39:1 with thin (blown) gaskets, 8.11:1 with the thicker one (still working) when I calculate with actual head volume and compressed gasket thickness. This with JE aftermarket pistons in an LC block.

With due respect to Mr Vizard, the chart shows the general relationship only. With the different compression ratio, valve axis, number of valves, number of cams etc, we would need a new chart to apply to our 9xx engines. That said, cam specs and timing are not intuitive to me at all so I say optimize the 2-3000 range for good off boost efficiency and cruise behavior, and let the turbo offer what higher rpm power it can. I'll be happy with whatever bolt-on assembly of commonly available parts gets me there, no interest in getting cams ground, searching out a 104 cam etc to get more power that I can't put through the Citroen box. So my interest was modeling the difference for a turbo 910 with 110 exhaust pully vs a 104 exhaust pully, assuming the 104 intake pully was acceptable. If I get a stronger transaxle (Anyone, how's the Boxster 6spd adapter project going?) It might be worth $pending more time optimizing the valvetrain and upping the boost. A two-piece cam pully with a centrifugal advance mechanism like a distributor's could give you a very basic VVT if you had the dyno time to establish optimums to shoot for. A clever design could be flipped over to retard on one cam and advance on the other.

Well it's been 5 years since I took these charts, which don't reflect full power runs or plenty of tweaking since then, but here's what my datalogging showed for the calculated torque/power at the wheels. (rpm rise vs weight & gearing ) Looking at the top points gives a sense of output, but bears some skepticism given road grade is not accounted for and weight is from published road tests, not my car exactly. Lower points are cruise/decel etc. 107 cams on 104 pullies

No $22 was for the shipping from UK, part was a few pounds, and the listing did not specify the quantity. Thanks for the link, but the last step of checkout added $18 shipping to the $5 handling fee on $4 worth of parts, so I'll look elsewhere. I don't need them now (jinx), just know I have some sockets showing some heat/wear and wanted to have them on hand in case I was ever so masochistic as to try to pull my fusebox!

Geotze (sp?) worked for me after several others failed. ARP studs seem to be popular, especially over early OEM studs.

Slow reply, I've been to town and will have to look at the above later, My twinscroll gives me my 10 psi by 26-2700 rpm at full throttle. Although its a T4 flange with a .85 A/r, the small light wheels on ceramic bearings seem to spin up well. So probably not a relevant match to the T04B. I'm running an ebay 4.5"x 4.5"x 10 air to water intercooler, efficiency unknown, but it keeps the IAT down considerably. Thanks for the interest, hope I don't find myself custom broaching some oddball MOP pully!

I'm running the Borg Warner EFR 6258-G turbocharger. Info attached. If memory serves my 45mm intake runners are about 360mm from valve to bell mouth, into an open plenum of about 2 liter. I haven't measured the primaries on the Alunox manifold, can do if you need that info. EFR 6258-G.pdf

My 910 ('85 LC but with 8:1 pistons) is now running 107's on 104/104 MOP. My EFI intake runners are 1.4" longer than the original carbs, and I'm running the Alunox exhaust into a small twin-scroll turbo. Do you think the 110 exhaust pully is for me? I have one on hand if a 104in/110ex curve looks better than the 104/104. Thanks for posting up your results!