Erikl

Wow - looks stunning - I am sure you posted this before but, how much weight are you saving? Worth it on the cool factor alone. I have just started driving mine again after the X180R inspired roll cage build and install (took 8 months 😞 ) The LSD, Lightweight Flywheel and slightly stronger and lighter clutch is on its way from UK. This fall I am going to start making a mold for a lightweight rear deck and sunroof inspired by you and Mike.

When I installed the suggested setting was in the instru tions mine did not come pre set but he may be. Doing that now

Other will chime in, but if you turn up the vacuum a little the hard pedal will soften. Did you set the vac at the recomended? I forget what it is. When I installed mine I initially had the recomended, wanted a harder pedal so turned it down. Then after driving it for a while and getting a feel - tweaking the vac, ended up at the recomended pressure. Has great feel for me! Note I have larger discs and calipers then stock.

Oh I remember what I was thinking on the air cooled 911 if the valve adjustment was off a bit it could make a bad compression but the leak down would be good because you can rock the motor back and forth a little until you get the valves to seal could it be valve lash sort of same thing but throwing mud

Is it possible the timing is off slighty some how and valves are a wee bit open screwing up the comp test? Maybe check that the exh and int timing is 100%. Cant imagine off a tooth but isnt there a part in the cam belt system on V8 that can get loose and slip and folks drill and add a key.

If all else fails I will happily send you my gear box and you can send me yours. I will cover shipping for both boxes 😁 Not sure I would bother with a shop that thinks an upgraded main shaft on a UN1 is a negative, pretty well known issue, especially for V8s.

Also, i believe Esprit engineering will rebuild the old ECU. Probably not inexpensive how ever.

Hmm I cant recall much difficulty in removing. Maybe the US cars are different? Can you post a pic?

Yeah - I want you to run 12 volts to the fuel pump and then try to start the car

Very curious, once you get it sorted report back please.

Have you downloaded your copy of the Service Manual and the Parts Manual from this forum? They are invaluable in learning about the cars. The grund locations are shown in there, if I had a minute I would pull it up.

Consider jumping the relay, if pump runs start the car. curious if any other codes.

Curious what that code means? If you look in the service manual I think there is a list of things that could be wrong for each code? I think that is how it works.

The Fuel Pump and ignition relay are identical and next to each other IIRC. Positive you are on the right relay? One thing you might try, there is a similar relay on the other side of the box, plug it in. Its wrong and makes the fuel pump run all the time (I learned this hard way - face palm). The computer is common to a bunch of GM vehicles for that era and cheap, you just have to change the chip out is my understanding (have not done this). Also Esprit Engineering there in the UK fixes them IIRC - check their web site.

Maybe others will have a better idea, but I would start checking voltages with a volt meter. At the fuel pump conector then before relay and fuse, then after etc. For some reason it sounds like power not going to the fuel pump. So you cant hear the pump when you first turn the key on, right? I wonder if you jumpered 12 volts direct to the fuel pump connector and see if the car runs? That would possibly narrow down that its a signal thing? Just mud at the wall.