Radius arm to bush bolt fitting.

[mdw]

I am just about to refit my rear suspension an noticed the bolt for the radius arm bush is loose in the bush sleeve but snug in the arm. Is that correct? Both bolt and bush are new. Unfortunantly Ive binned the old bush so cant compare. The bolt is 11.13mm and the bush sleve 12.20mm.

Edited April 26, 2012 by mdw

[CHANGES]

That does not sound right to me. they should both have a nice snug fit,

Where did you get the bush from ?

Is it Lotus own design...?

[mdw]

Yes the bush is one of the Lotus polybush sets and the bolt is a new one from SJs. I think the bolt is correct as it fits the arm correctly and the old bolt doesnt have a step to it.

Edited April 26, 2012 by mdw

[mdw]

Looks like they are for a later model , 95 onwards.

[dodge1979]

Silly comment maybe, but.the metal sleeve is in the bush isnt it...

Ignore me just re read it...u said bush sleeve..sorry!

[Bibs]

This is how the bolt/hole have been for 30+ years! I've asked Brian Angus and the bolt has always been too small for the hole, there's no ill effect or detriment to this.

[andydclements]

With Bibs on this.

We must not loose sight of the fact that bolts etc are designed to hold items by compressing the faces of components together, causing sufficient friction, not acting as some sort of plug aligning two holes.

[eeyoreish]

I'm thinking about changing these radius arm bushes on my '90 N/A as I'm running on the originals and conscious that given the stresses they're under I doubt they are in great shape.

 

How much disassembly/removal of other bits is required to access & change these on the Stevens?

 

After my experience with the lower link I'm hoping to avoid any jobs that require removing the lower link studs...

[mdw]

Just remember the spacer positions, number and location and refit in the same order. I did mine with the engine out but would imaging whilst a bit fidly its doable with it in place.

[eeyoreish]

Just remember the spacer positions, number and location and refit in the same order. I did mine with the engine out but would imaging whilst a bit fidly its doable with it in place.

 

Thanks Malcolm. Next time I'm under the car (won't be long I'm sure) I'll see what the access looks like. A friend of mine with a G Turbo also reckons it might be possible on the Stevens with engine in. 

 

Did you have to disconnect the flexi brake hoses on the arm and anything at the hub end or is it just a case of removing the bush and refitting the new one with the arm still in place?

 

For £30 a side it seems to make sense to change them if it's possible.

[Sparky]

I've done plenty with everything in situ. However, when we did Ian's S4s I'm not sure we'd have managed it had the engine been in the way - they were seized solid and needed the 2 of us to persuade them out with large lumps of metal.

[Vulcan Grey]

I just did mine with engine in place, but I did have the exhaust manifold out. Was an easy job, but then there is no rust on my car...

[Chillidoggy]

Engine out, and it's OK but with the engine in, it's going to be a lot more difficult.

 

It took a lot of force on a 750mm long break-bar to even start them off, and they fought us all the way.

I just did mine with engine in place, but I did have the exhaust manifold out. Was an easy job, but then there is no rust on my car...

You know, I think you may have possibly mentioned that before............

[eeyoreish]

I've done plenty with everything in situ. However, when we did Ian's S4s I'm not sure we'd have managed it had the engine been in the way - they were seized solid and needed the 2 of us to persuade them out with large lumps of metal.

 

Hmm...

 

Well they're on my 'to do' list but getting further from the top as it sounds like they'll be tricky.

 

I'm not getting any (obvious) problems from them so I'll inspect them next time I'm in the vicinity and decide how urgent a job it is...

[Vulcan Grey]

You know, I think you may have possibly mentioned that before............

 

 

 

Hmm...

 

Well they're on my 'to do' list but getting further from the top as it sounds like they'll be tricky.

 

I'm not getting any (obvious) problems from them so I'll inspect them next time I'm in the vicinity and decide how urgent a job it is...

 

My original bushings were actually in really good shape.  You may be fine as far as the rubber goes, if there isn't a lot of rust eating the framework that holds the bushing to the chassis.

 

Here are my 26 year old bushings, photo from a few weeks ago, car has 84k miles.

 

The bolt won't come out all the way until the other two bolts that hold the bushing to the chassis are removed.