The story of Little Red Riding Hood

[canamfan]

Glass? Windshield? 🙄

[Sparky]

Decanter and wine glasses?

[Giniw]

(CF engine cover?)

[Jacques]

4 hours ago, canamfan said:

Glass? Windshield? 🙄

Nope

3 hours ago, Sparky said:

Decanter and wine glasses?

Good guess, but nope.

2 hours ago, Giniw said:

(CF engine cover?)

Yeps! You got it, just not in cf, but a genuine sparepart in bag and sticker. 

It a very nice engine cover from an S4, that I will use as soon as a company somewhere around here, has reworked the terribly made carbonfiber tailgate I bought long ago from a UK spares dealer. It will come around, eventually. For now, we just had lots of snow and many roads, bus rutes and trains are closed down. Winter is here, and TLF is open, ho ho ho 🎅

Kind regards,

Jacques

[Jacques]

On 19/04/2021 at 09:14, tomcattom said:

Any noticeable difference now the poly mounts are fitted? Mine are sat in a box waiting for the next round of work on the car this coming winter.

What's that cylindrical item under the gearbox in your picture for? Looks a bit like a non-return valve.

Btw, an update to this: Yes, it keeps the box in place compared to old rubber parts. So compared to new original rubber ones, I cannot say. But it does keep the box in place, and one can feel it while pushing heavily on the gas pedal. Recommended. And they are easy to install.

And to the Morgan approach: Well somehow, as it will be closed front fenders, not open as on say a +8, and the wooded frame I already have inside the cabin, just behind me, covered in a red carpet

Kind regards,

Jacques

[tomcattom]

After I posted that I did wonder how long it would be before someone mentioned the wooden bulkhead panel

[Jacques]

Well, it is a British car after all

Kind regards,

Jacques

[Giniw]

7 hours ago, tomcattom said:

After I posted that I did wonder how long it would be before someone mentioned the wooden bulkhead panel

Some aero bits of the Evora are wooden panels too apparently.

[Escape]

Wood is mostly carbon. 🙂

[Jacques]

9 hours ago, Escape said:

Wood is mostly carbon. 🙂

- to all those fancy pancy porsche owners.

Kind regards,

Jacques

[Jacques]

Right, so I began taking another gearbox apart to possibly make it a donor box with regards to the secondary main axle and some gears etc. for my supershift/superbox project. Or as they say: "New year - new box".

I took the bellhousing off, the end cover off, the 5'th gear and assembly off, and sequentially loosened and removed all the bolts that hold together the gearbox halves.

Now I am trying to split the box. In the manual it says that one may want to use a plastic hammer to tap on the 4 small flanges that is available; one front uo, one down, one rear up and one down. I did. A lot, like in may times. Many.

So, I got to a point where I can hear from the sound that one side is slightly apart, but not really visible yet. The opposite side (let's say the underside) is stuck. I got to a point where my hammering arm got really tired and my quality plastic/rubber hammer is worn out.

Any advice as to persuade it to split?

Little Red Riding Hood is away from home and cannot see this happening, but I rest assured that she will like an improved box/shifter etc. for which I've been collecting parts for the last few years.

Kind regards,

Jacques

[drdoom]

Hello Jacques!

Wedging action will generate immense force if put to use eagerly, so be mindful that you spread the force widely using multiple wedges.

[Jacques]

Wedges. Do you mean for example small wooden ones? Or another form of action?

For the moment, I can only detect a difference in sound, meaning the one side have loosened a tiny bit. No visual confirmation or say a visible gap, hence the question.

Kind regards,

Jacques

[drdoom]

Wedges of very shallow included angle would suit, hardwood best of all but flat metallic scrapers are good for opening a gap at the start.

[Jacques]

Will try that with great caution.

Thanks Steve.

Kind regards,

Jacques

[Jacques]

Okay, so used a big rubber hammer and knocked at it all the way round and it separated, so no worries. I guess I just became tired the other day

So, upon lifting out the secondary, the primary and the differential, I inspected things and they look okay for now. Closer inspection is needed.

- Question: I was told that one can use a tell tale paste that one apply on all teeth and spin them and see where they touch and thereby where they don't, and can tell about the wear, not always visible. Has anyone used that and if it's a good idea and eventually where to get it?

- Another question: I pulled the big bearings from the differential, and took it all apart. I guess it's probably a good idea to change those two differential bearings regardless?

- And the 10 bolts holding the crownwheel, two of those are longer and lock some parts of the original differential. Using a new Quaife, I need 10 new bolts the manual says, so it's either that or reusing the old ones and cut off the tip on those two longer ones. I tend to use 10 new (all short) bolts, but want to ask about the view on renew or reuse on here?

- Finally I want to ask regarding the o-ring on the diff axles. On the original, there's a recess for the o-rings. On the Quaife, there's nothing. So, is the consensus to install two new o-rings on the Quaife anyway, or are they redundant?

 

Kind regards,

Jacques

 

[Giniw]

9 hours ago, Jacques said:

Has anyone used that and if it's a good idea and eventually where to get it?

Never used or bought, but I have read about that in a Toyota diff workshop manual procedure so it must be a good idea. If I remember correctly it was to align it properly, not really wear related like it's sometimes done for the crankshaft bearings.

[EXCEL V8]

"Stuarts Micrometer Engineer's Marking Blue" is what is traditionally used to look at gear meshing but I prefer the yellow stuff (I'll dig it out and remind myself of its name later) - it's easier to see to patterns made by the meshing of the teeth.

Pete

[EXCEL V8]

AC Delco 10-5055 yellow gear marking paste.  I've not tried the red versions before but people seem to like those as well.

Pete

[Jacques]

Thanks Peter and Giniw. I'll look into it immediately.

Kind regards,

Jacques

[mike_sekinger]

13 hours ago, Jacques said:

- Finally I want to ask regarding the o-ring on the diff axles. On the original, there's a recess for the o-rings. On the Quaife, there's nothing. So, is the consensus to install two new o-rings on the Quaife anyway, or are they redundant?

The o-rings at the base of the axles are redundant with the Quaife ATB diff.

There are different options and ideas for effective sealing of the driveshafts.  Some suggest using several outer seals where others experienced no issues with the absense of the o-ring.

I experienced an issue with Simon`s V8 which was overcome by using 2x thinner oil seals with the inner having a slightly shortened lip sealing spring.

[Jacques]

Thanks Mike. I will not use any o-ringes then. And I guess there is a margin for sealing it experimentation, when I reach that point.

May I also ask to the use of the 8 (10) bolts to crownwheel housing. Are they always renewed or can they be reused? I looked up the bolts on SJ's webpage, and they have a different look to the bolt head. Is that a general use for the purpose bolt or was there possibly a change in execution of said bolt from Lotus?

Kind regards,

Jacques

[jonwat]

2 hours ago, mike_sekinger said:

The o-rings at the base of the axles are redundant with the Quaife ATB diff.

The o-rings are there to stop oil seeping along the splines, into the roll pin & out through the ends so as long as you make a good job of sealing the roll pin ends you should be OK 👍 

[Jacques]

Thanks John,

I'll do that then.

Kind regards,

Jacques

[Jacques]

Meanwhile at the garage, I am assembling the new (lightly used second hand primary Holloway axle and it's assorted parts. So, I've now reached the point where I am trying to install a bearing, which in the original installation is part no. 23 page 47,08B in the parts manual (1990SE), and of course the new axle being thicker, needs a bigger inner diameter bearing, and it is supplied with the kit. But, it just slides nicely over the axle, which I think it not meant to be so, as it would spin on the axle itself, rather than roll the rollers... So, axle is 26mm and bearing is 26mm inner diameter. What is the consensus here, should I get another nearing slightly smaller inner dia, and install and in that case, how much smaller? Or should I lock it in with a bearing "glue"?

Advices much appreciated.

Kind regards,

Jacques

Picture shows the affected area. Bearing is a French SNR N10755.