Ian's S4s refurb

[Sparky]

yes, press for bushes out and in. Ian turned up a nice insertion tool that made it very easy. To get the links/sleeves out, a nice bit of M12 stud, nuts, washers and suitable drift. And a hacksaw for the awkward bits.

[Chillidoggy]

You forgot to mention that you need a certain "touch and feel" to avoid disappointment.

[Sparky]

Wasn't that the night before?

[Chillidoggy]

Discretion is clearly not your strong point.

[fsrowsell]

Sparky, I'm always learning

Your never to old to learn!

[Chillidoggy]

So, what is the de-facto way of removal and refitting of bushes without bending links and wishbones? I'm guessing you guys used a press?

The old bushes can be pushed out using a vice, a suitable piece of tube, and a solid round bar, it doesn't matter if you destroy them. Another method I have used to good effect when the tools haven't been available is simply to set fire to them with a blowtorch, and let the rubber burn away.

Fitting the new poly bushes without damaging them is virtually impossible, or at the least extremely difficult, without a purpose-made jig/tool, and a vice, or most preferably, a press.

[Vanya]

Ok, thanks for the input. I'd surmised as much Guess I'll be looking out for a 10-ton press.

[Chillidoggy]

No, you shouldn't need a 10-tonne press to push them in, nowhere near it, Vanya. The only reason I used a 30-tonne bench press was because its the only one I had access to. You only need to make sure it has the correct travel to push the bushes in in one go.

[Vanya]

Ok! Got it!

[Tocus]

Wow i can learn something from this whole topic guys,

Thanks Ian for sharing so much pictures, maby i must get my petrol tanks also out into the future, then i know how i must ask!

(i also own a S4s) keep on with the good work! looks very very good all what you did on the car,

[Chillidoggy]

Some more photos:

Finished off covering the boot floor with the Thermal Velocity heat shield material. Again, it's not an easy job to do, firstly stripping the old stuff off is tedious, and secondly it takes a long time to decide how best to put the new material down with some many compound curves involved, without wasting too much.

The S4 flywheel back from being rotary ground, they've made a very nice job, too.

Finally got the exhaust valve clearances sorted. I must have had the cam carrier on and off about 10 times, or at least it seemed like it. I ended up grinding one last shim down about 0.003", and now they're all in the 11-12 thousandths range, which I'm pleased about. The inlet clearances were already within tolerances, so I didn't have to remove that cam carrier.

Mocking up the carbon canister pipework. The black thing in the middle is the non return valve that sits up behind the EH rear buttress.

While the engine was out, I took the time to complete the bulkhead bracket modification, which involves removing the brackets, shortening them a few millimetres, and reinstalling them. It took about an hour, but I'm assured by Sparky that it's a far more difficult job with the engine in situ.

[Qavion]

I took the time to complete the bulkhead bracket modification, which involves removing the brackets, shortening them a few millimetres,

 

 

Another memo I missed.

 

Is this because the bukhead wood shrinks? Or does it provide some kind of extra clearance for something?

 

I recently found the pipes perished on my not so old charcoal cannister. I'm wondering if my cannister has actually been doing anything the last few years

Edited April 19, 2015 by Qavion

[Chillidoggy]

I refitted the rear suspension, driveshafts and damper bushes yesterday. I could have done with a few more arms to hold stuff, but I got there in the end. At least that's one job I won't have to do again for some time. I can't tighten anything up yet, because I haven't got any weight in the car, so that will have to wait until the engine and box is back in, and I can get some fuel in.

I removed the pipes off of the original filter block, and mocked up the new Mocal oil thermostat. The photo shows how you have to remove some material from the unions in order for the filter to be able to sit properly.

[Bibs]

Are Fram not the oil filters that everyone hates as they disintegrate due to being so poorly made?

 

https://www.google.co.uk/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=fram+oil+filter+review

 

[Chillidoggy]

Ha, ha! Sparky and I were debating how long it would take.

The clue was "mocked up".

[Sparky]

Muhahaha

[Chillidoggy]

After a long search, I finally found a fitting suitable for the turbo lower coolant port. It came from China, in 5 days. Amazing.

And the "nursery" for the engine and gearbox is pretty much ready to accept them back in.

[Sparky]

Squeaky!

[red vtec]

Don't they use Ferrari use Fram oil filters? Seen loads of them fitted with the orange ones

[Chillidoggy]

I thought Ferrari used Purflux oil filters these days, but I stand corrected. I think the parent company also owns Fram.

[Chillidoggy]

Finally got the engine and gearbox back together, and fitted back into the car. The biggest problem I had was fitting the turbo drain, as I had to file the flange side down to clear the turbo body, which put me back a while. Now the fun starts trying to remember where all the pipe and wires go.

[Chillidoggy]

Some photos from yesterday's performance -

[Escape]

Great feeling to have the engine go back in, isn't it? From now on, each step is direct step towards driving her again. :-)

[Barrykearley]

Loving that - tis only one way to go now.

Pictures do make me slightly nervous - mines a keeper and I'm sure it'll be in the 5year plan!!!

[Mysterae]

Great thread Ian. I appreciate the time taken to take and post images, best of luck with the reinstall .