snowrx

1) I am running the T104RB on my Turbo Esprit, it's the same tooth count and a mm or two narrower, and went on fine. 2)My crank pulley has 20 teeth, so I would assume 360*/20 would give you 18 crank degrees per tooth. 3) Is one of these shots what you're looking for?

I don't really think I have the authority to expose my entire lineage and ancestry to forensic DNA investigation, no matter how curious I might be about who preceded me. Some fascinating stories (and inconvenient family secrets) out there though!

I should get that sign, although I feel safer now, somebody has put a collar on my cougar.

Doubtless the slowest Scalextric car since the Reliant Robin version, given the front track!

We can't drive past a truck stop here in 'Murica with out seeing a pair of those

Usually ABS brakes, but sometimes a manufacturer will get vehicle speed direct from the wheel. I don't know the specifics for your car. Wiring diagram may show which module it connects to.

One could run it off the intake cam, which would keep the wiring away from the exhaust heat, but you'd want to keep the wiring away from the sparkplug electrical noise with a compact sensor or a 90 degree connector. The rest is at https://www.lotustalk.com/threads/910-megasquirt.339834/#post-4494234

My parts are on the wrong side of the pond also, and would likely have the same tolerances. I did attempt a rear VR sensor off the (turned down) pully flange, but by the time I had heat shields around it it was just a bodge.

Excel V8 The air pump drive flange has the piloted inside diameter and wide base, so it should run pretty concentric. I have a turbo, so could not use that end for a cam sensor due to the heat from the turbine housing. I placed my VR sensor behind the exhaust cam pulley, with a M6 bolt in the pully as a trigger.

I use a grey sealant used for machined surfaces (when I started it was "Yamabond" or Threebond for motorcycle crankcases) on the cover side of the gasket and the A136 on the other. That way the gasket always stays attached to the cover on disassembly without tearing the gasket, and I've had no leaks.

Always curious what folks have come up with for advance curves....🤔

On my '85 TE, that motor mount bolt was captive even with the OEM manifold. I had hoped my Alunox would allow extraction, but no.

RE; the tops on the turbo cars I've had some luck casting aluminum from PLA printed items. One could get a quality scan of the turbo carb tops and generate a casting model to print, then put it in plaster, bake out the plastic and replace it with aluminum. You'd need to be slightly oversize to allow for casting shrinkage and leave the holes undersize for later drilling and threading.

Starlink with the original round dish usually gives the best part of 100mps here in the NW USA, but I have seen 30-250mps.

Thanks for the pics fix Sparky. Seeing those headlight frames has me considering the stainless option!

Oh well then, ignore my pic then, I bought the engineering!

And just to be different and difficult, the USA '85 Turbo has it attached to the engine bulkhead behind the electrics. You'd think it would have been easier to standardize across the line for a small manufacturer, but differences abound.

Inboard discs and large radius links!

A thermocouple style contact thermometer is pretty cheap and simple, get one with small bead style tip for touching to the outside of pipes. An awful lot of digital multimeters have the function built in, but a stand alone thermometer is cheap enough; Here's one with liquid and contact sensors for $12USD. https://www.ebay.com/itm/314399045311

Which pullies are those?

@drdoom Here's what the full-width monitor looked like with the 2K camera above the license plate. (just clipped to the OE mirror) vs the mirror view. Nice concept , but there are issues with reflections washing out the image on bright days, which makes you want to tilt the mirror towards the headliner, which compounds the issue of having enough articulation in the mount. This ToGaurd model has a on/off switch on the bottom so you can easily disable the monitor if you want.

@Gjk Yes, this $90USD mirror was poorly designed, they should have integrated all the wiring into one cable and split out the harness options hidden elsewhere. I was hoping to illustrate a sample mount. @drdoom Just a forward facing camera with an integral DVR would only need a power and ground through a slim cable. But when you add a rear camera that's usually another cable. I assume some vendors offer better wiring integration than mine, which I picked for having a full width display and better cameras rather than appearance. The GPS module was free so I stuck it in, but it just adds speed data to your logs and flashes an annoying warning if you exceed 100mph, so that's one less cable I'd use in the future. If I was hurting for projects, I suppose I could open up the mirror and solder in a single multi wire harness to the existing sockets and clean it up, but then I'd have less time to drive!

I think seeing the wire is the cost of the added functions, unless you find an OEM mount that has the wire through the mount. On my older car the only plus for the existing mount was originality, it vibrated a bit even after preloading the windscreen brace rubber a bit. I was going another direction with my mirror, seeking more field of view with a camera monitor mirror, so I've not looked into the dimming/homelink stuff. This pic is a mess, as this particular monitor had power, rear camera and GPS module cables, and the grey RJ-11 was for my radar detector, but here's the generic mount I used, which still needed a little fettling to get enough angle.

No need to dream, CarBuff. Auto-dimming Homelink mirrors start a $25 on Ebay, but you'll need to be careful selecting/adapting the mount to get one that articulates enough to cope with our windshield slope, and glue on a mirror shoe. Gentex universal mirrors I think are 200-250 new, with a variety of mounts available. https://www.ebay.com/itm/154983094217?hash=item2415b657c9:g:iDYAAOSwkmBideRP&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAABEOm8JNGeXbnNrTcHxIJ71asPzEP7%2FQPAvMpk6Q8zr1ZM2bZHvXx%2F9ig0n2nZprOjeF1S4xzKAd%2BA3tJ2sAmoHYGIx7SqZBFoZRYodUJTydI%2Bim6VLNXilcDlJHcpqo4FkClj0veQ%2BfpM8fnNggzy4i%2FBuY3O8P9bAjEePgIsrHAVQ7Iql7wqpum0Kq%2BHO5ItCi2KLGiNO3i7glmvBUNbObC627uD7Ip6RZ1muluNMlKj9gbEr0AW1y24w%2BrhQu79ccYQ%2Bg8GRGPUXEJj69Ao6JyROA8QeRcrBqUfs%2FxoZ4EXNnKz7k9%2BqWhlptrshf1nvFDbkpjVNGiUATJqKBC0Noq6kG6IGCky0sEnZcJL45Bw|tkp%3ABk9SR4LPr839YQ

Apologies on the thermostat suggestion, My '85 TE has the thermostat in the top of the water pump (easy & cheaper) not the one in the hose system... Is there a spot in the engine bay where you can loosen a uppermost hose clamp to rule out any possible trapped air in the system?