snowrx

I'm another that wants more info on that early EFI / turbo fitment on the red "cooling" car. Anyone have a link ❓

Fingers crossed for a LDA, but the car selection would be lacking if they don't bring over the good stuff they don't sell here.

Just guessing here, the crank cam drive pulley has separated from the balancer, or, Inner hub is broken free from the outer rim at the rubber interface?

At 6'2" you might want to look at relocating the wheel on an eccentric spacer so you can see the tops of the gauges.

Given the grease fitting on the driveshaft, I would guess this car has some sort of sliding spline under the black boot to allow variation in length.

My Federal '85 TE has the same speaker grill. I glued some new speakers into them and threaded them back into the retainers.

If you're confident with a feeler gauge and grab a cheap micrometer to measure the shims, the valves aren't especially difficult, they just take a lot of time. Take care to use magnets to keep them from escaping when you pull the cam carriers, and have a 16 space container to set the buckets and shims in as you pull it apart. There's a spreadsheet out there that takes care of the math for you. Just be prepared to measure, assemble and reassemble several times as it never seems to be perfect the first time. And use a torque wrench for the cam carrier bolts as they tend to strip out easily.

My left dimmer would not go all the way down to zero ohms resistance, compounding the dimness of the OEM bulbs. But, as above, dim fading to less dim.

Here's what I did with my '85 turbo; https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f164/brighter-bulbs-g-car-smiths-speedo-tach-356705/ Getting bright enough bulbs is easy, dimming them is a bit more work, but inexpensive as in the last link in the post.

Perhaps you could take a rubbed template off your existing manifold and get one water cut from that? EBay has lots of the turbo side flanges, Burns Stainless has nice collectors etc. I assume you've seen the new Alunox CNC'd individual flanges for the exhaust ports, you might see if they would part with a set?

It appears the door switches just ground the delay, which has power coming from two locations. Also, once it's working, Inoticed on my '85 turbo that the light delay unit (yellow, behind the glovebox) would not turn off at all with normal LEDs in the doors and interior light fixture. I found ones that drew more current and the delay unit started to work properly. It needs a load.

Beats walking, but it looks like it was done in the dark by feel without a jack.

Curious also to see pic's

Didn't you mean to say $tainless $teel? 😉

Well, the parts could be under $200, and there are plenty of posts detailing the process on the forums. DIY- it's mostly labor expense. If the engine was out you could swap it out in an hour, so consider if there are other engine items to be addressed in the near future. The major difficulty is accessing the belt with the bits crammed up against the bulkhead, so you need to remove parts to get at what you want, from top and bottom. A better than average assortment of hand tools makes working in the tight quarters easier. If your '84 still has the original pulleys, you might look at a belt upgrade- https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f164/blue-trapezoidal-timing-belt-371954/

Well one day I'm readin' the paper and there she was; Often wondered if I should of picked them both up & sold one to finance the other!

Thanks for posting all the pic's First read all Tim Engle's posts on the 910 engine- One of the vendors, I think Kemp, has valve guides with seals on them. You may want to get a stronger Gates T104RB "blue" timing belt to work with your trapezoidal pulleys. Check to see if the green dot pulley has been swapped over from the Aux shaft to the intake cam. Youu might have your guy carefully helicoil ( or time-sert) the cam carrier mounting holes in the head. It's a when, not if, stripping hazard, usually right when you think you're done with a lash adjustment. Check the exhaust stud holes for wear, the rear ones have a habit of disappearing, possibly damaging the threads on the way out. The early head studs are a bit iffy, many go the the ARP replacements. Check the tappets for cracking. Later ones were steel and stronger if you want to upgrade. My originals are holding up so far.... Oil pressure being on the low side in the cars, you should check out the oil pump rotors/housing for wear, maybe lap the housing for proper end float.

I think the air injection ports above the exhaust seal up with a 1/8" BSP plug, if you're ordering parts yet Save all the emissions stuff neatly in a box for one of our unfortunate California members- someday someone will need it to keep CARB happy. If the floods. drought and fires keep up we may all be looking for unobtainable smog gear someday! My car was 4 slots ahead of yours if Lotus stayed sequential with the VIN's

I have always wondered what the air pump and plumbing looked like installed, thanks for the picture. A number of owners have mentioned not using the choke at all, just a few pumps of the throttle to start, but a paperclip is a bit tacky. Best wishes for a successful overhaul, and if the rings are really worn give the airbox / filter sealing a good looking over. Some available filters do not seal well and allow grit in which would be visible in the turbo intake hose. At 122K low compression would be expected anyway, but worth checking since the last motor isn't that old.

Check the relays in the left front trunk first for the headlight issue. Check under your seat rails for spacer washers to delete for extra headroom. I fabbed a bracket to replace the slider rail for even more room. (6'1" & .08Esprit pounds) Don't forget https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f164/ in your upcoming searches. Have fun with the new toy!

Mmmmm Silver looks good. Keeping mine BRG though......

Wasn't thinking of a repair, rather reinforcement of existing good part to remove the stress riser effect of the threaded hole by filling it up with weld metal.

I wonder if the sintered metal could be MIG welded, as in fill the hole with weld to remove the weak spot? My guess is no, but maybe the replacements are made of real metal that could be welded. Getting it off might be tough later, but not as tough as a cams adrift rebuild.

Been there, re-threaded that, do 'em all whilst yer in there. Softest aluminium I ever worked with, compounded with the need to on/off/on off to get valves set.

You can replace a variable resistor type dimmer with a cheap PWM module from eBay and get full range dimming on your dash LED's, but you need to isolate the bulb grounds. LED rated flashers are commonly available, but you may need to adapt them to your cars relay socket pinout.