78070100S Progress

[drdoom]

Just through a stretch of hours going through the 2nd lift motor thoroughly, consequently I've no need of pics of the internals. Evidently this unit had been refurbished in the PO's time, job done to a middling standard of care. Tomorrow it will be closed up and fitted with a hand made set screw for testing in situ.

As to the hold over relay it took a bit of time before I realised the feed wire for that was tapped off my nearby horns relay wiring. It's job is solely for relay control function so no draw of consequence. It's been forever since that work was done, hence the mystery and one which was today easily resolved when the horns circuit fuse was fitted. Test results now as intended, the dipped beams remain lit when stepping up to mains. Looking back in contemplation of what had been my motivation to do it that way it occurs that the dipped and main can readily be de-coupled by removing the horns fuse, in the event law enforcement takes a dim view.

Cheers 

[LotuStuart]

2 hours ago, drdoom said:

It's job is solely for relay control function so no draw of consequence.

I'm not sure what you mean by this.

The only draw of no consequence on a relay is the one that controls it. Your post makes it sound like this is the supply voltage wire. 

It probably doesn't matter anyway. unless you drive with the lights on and constantly blowing the horn the draw should be manageable by the horn fuse. But I would check that to be sure. 

[drdoom]

The hold over relay adds a 2nd means of control for the dipped beam relay, thus it carries minimal current when functioning. In other words its load side tapped off the horns powers the control side of the dipped relay, while its own control feed is tapped off the main beam control.

Cheers

[drdoom]

Regarding the main beams flash function I observe the following: 1 momentary tug of the dipswitch lever sends the pods full circle, lamps not lit; holding the flash lever brings the pods to upright, the mains on in accordance with my wiring and then all returning to resting position/lamps off upon release of the dipswicth. Is this as it should be?

Cheers

[drdoom]

August confessional from the deep rabbit hole of automotive wiring, how a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing. I am pressing on with this mad campaign, determined it will be technically sound, well built and presentably harmonious with the OEM Esprit aesthetics. The internet has enabled my wandering quest for the best, starting with upgrading feeds for the headlamps and by now having morphed into something near what would serve a pro racing effort. I'll post up pics once it's all tidied, nothing further to say on the overall layout 'til then except how much it might have spared me had the LED headlamps been available when it all began.

I'd found one headlamp lift motor malfunctioning, opened it up finding some unimpressive repair work and so went off in search of a solution via the vendors. Failing to persuade one vendor to sell me a refurbished motor outright, and concerned for the inherent perils of shipping over a core I found a local solution, the complete H/L unit off a TR-7. What a heavy beast of a thing it is, with gantry structure and large mousetrap spring clearly foreign to the Lotus way of doing. Opened up the motor once separated from the rest, finding one permanent magnet broken into 2 segments and floating free of attachment to the casing wall. In the end I salvaged the internal switch/diode unit with brush card with which to replace the dodgy one in my duff motor and, voila, now have 2 nicely functioning lifts plus intimate knowledge of how all this works. Can't say this helps with the pace of progress but I'm confident of the soundness of the system going forward.

Finalising all the bespoke additions through forward boot and cabin currently, and about to resolve plug connections for separating all cabin forward from the aft bay. So I've about reached the summit of this mad trek and looking forward to seeing it all taped up and stuck on a shelf until the car is ready for assembly.

Cheers 

[drdoom]

Diligence paid off the other night while I was in the process of affirming operation of the rather complex headlamp electricals. The 7 relay block located in the forward boot was off its attachments in order that power might be detected by probe from underneath, and as I handled the thing some dithering ( erratic clicking ) was heard in a relay thus indicating a connection defect. Quite perturbed as the crimps were done with great care so somewhat relieved when it turned out to be marginal contact where the relay was seated. Bear in mind this is all high quality stuff from vendors of high repute, no Amazon solutions in play. The relay block includes a "terminal locking cage"  plastic bit for each of the 7 positions and I chose to chuck these after seeing what became of the connection at the problem relay. Rather take my chances with terminals breaking through the basic retaining tabs cast into the block than risk sketchy function down the road.

Cheers 

[Djs44]

That TR7 set up is a bit of mess , agreed !! 

[JonSE]

This is one area like you I’m hoping to improve, after market fuse boxes and power feeds forward to give better support to the lights / windows / heating etc. Hoping to use the original loom but also add extra  capacity where needed, watching with interest!

[drdoom]

On 26/08/2023 at 10:15, Djs44 said:

That TR7 set up is a bit of mess , agreed !! 

Upon lifting up the TR unit one is struck by how heavy it all is. I take note of how it includes both the steel lamp bucket/pod and a 7" headlamp, thus moderating the impression somewhat. I suppose the mousetrap spring would assist in steadying the unit from jiggle when in the up position.

[drdoom]

Time for a thread bump between sessions in the garage. Thursday last was a treat as the trimmer visited, taking away the door panels and window switch/choke lever pod with assurances he'd not be long in completing and returning. Further happy news in assuring he'll be faithfully with the project through to completion.

As to the tedium of the bespoke wiring system, well, I plod along stoically enough. The last of revisions are shaping up well enough that I just now chose to haul out the cabin section to be worked on more agreeably and effectively on the bench. Foreward (boot) section is all but done, as is much of the engine bay section, while remaining to be done is the wiring for the ECU. For that I've the universal harness in hand though unhappy to realise the wire is rated only to 80 C. I'll terminate the ECU harness in cabin on Deutsch connectors, extending into the bay using wire rated for 125 C. as is current OEM practice. The connectors facilitate both assembly and future servicing so would have been in play whatever the wire spec.

Had I only foreseen how far down the rabbit hole I was to go . . . . 

Cheers

[drdoom]

Working a tad late on it this evening after a muddled day chasing about dealing with a prematurely failed battery on Mrs Doom's '21 Nissan. Plodding along on wiring details with intent to trial test the lot in situ once ready. With focus now turned to the instrument binnacle I gathered up the instruments, tidying up the last details on a couple before fitting the lens/bezels and mounting in the OEM plastic panel for test purposes. I've crafted a bespoke replacement panel which will look smart and serve as sound support, unlike the flimsy original.

Cheers  

[EXCEL V8]

That looks like Rimmer Brothers packaging a long way from Lincoln! 🙂

Pete

[drdoom]

Speedo lens was a touch yellowed, edge crumbling and face marred with several scratches so fashioned a new lens in acrylic. LED lighting has turned out well with bulbs from 

https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/products/2-x-glb501-t10-5-x-5050-led-capless-green-wedge-bulbs-classic-car-gauge-sidelight

Cheers

[LotuStuart]

Are those LEDs dimmable?
If so, they PROBABLY get very hot, and do not reduce power consumption much if at all.

I tested three types of bulbs. The canbus compliant ones run just as hot and take just as much power as incandescent ones.

[drdoom]

Thanks for that Stuart. I believe the LED's do get quite hot and would not doubt your view on power consumption. They do deliver a good light however and I anticipate no issues with power loads after a comprehensive electrical upgrade underway. I have no idea whether dimmable.

Cheers

[Choppa]

 @drdoom I never realised until looking at your photo just now that the position of the dials on a LHD Esprit are mirror image to that of a RHD model.

I replaced all of the  instrument filament bulbs in mine with green LEDs several years ago as the green plastic lenses over the bulbs had started to decompose on some of the gauges. They've  been fine and much brighter than the filament bulbs but unfortunately not dimmable. If those from Classic LEDs are dimmable I'd be interested to know so I can go about a further upgrade.

[drdoom]

@Choppa, agree the Classic LED's afford good lighting, as I've confirmed lately. I gave up on dimming after purchasing a gadget for the purpose which, though proven functional at the vendor's, good not dim those from Classic. I'll get by fine in any case, not expecting my aged eyes to struggle in night driving with excellent headlamps in service. There's also the panel lamps switch in the event I need to up my acuity in some challenging stretch of road.

Cheers

[drdoom]

Steady but slow progress lately, focussed on the instrument binnacle controls, lamps, etc. Some of the OEM paddle switches are fine after cleaning, the odd one replaced via SJ or Rimmer. LED bulbs for all points within the binnacle, tested for polarity as required. Taking @Lotusfab's course of action in refurbishing the fiber optic unit and finding it rather easy, with considerable rise in light output using 2.0mm strand purchased via Amazon.

Slowing the efforts were my numerous changes to circuits having repurposed some warning lamps in accordance with upgrades/additions to the car's electricals, and supplying either full time or ignition position sourced power to relays. All fitted into the pod and being checked for installation procedure before turning the bin over to the trimmer. Just about done with electricals foreward of the engine bay firewall, next onto the ECU related circuits with Deutsch connectors, a new experience for me. Will be such a breath of fresh air getting on with remaining mechanicals and body work after this pilgramage.

Cheers

[snowrx]

I had good luck dimming generic LED's with an Ebay PWM speed controller, although you need to float the grounds back to the module. I think the CAN bus bulbs run hotter as they are dumping current through a resistor to simulate the current draw of a filament.

 

[drdoom]

After an inordinate period of time sorting the switches, lamps, and instruments the pod section electricals are ready. Off to the trimmers goes the binnacle, into the cupboard go the loom and panels. 

[drdoom]

Despite the holidays and a persistent respiratory bug I've been keeping busy moving the project forward, completing the aft lighting harness and creating the ignition system layout. That is to be a 4 coil, crank triggered thing controlled via a basic ECU. In aid of that effort the choice was made to locate the coils outside the engine cover, thus routing the plug wires a very short distance through the luggage area. First effort mock-up was close but the coil mount panel took its ultimate shape in the process of trial assembly, after which I formed textured black ABS for the purpose. That is to be attached to the inner face of the LHS wheelarch with coils, control/feed wires and connections concealed on the panel's hidden side. Quite pleased with this first exercise in plastic fabrication, which includes a protective channel through which the plug wires are routed and pass through a corresponding notch in the engine cover. Attached pic taken today as I prepared a mock-up assembly in order to complete the plug wires to precise lengths. Back to it shortly. 

[drdoom]

Don't mind the garish brass fasteners, they were readily sourced at the building supply outlet in the correct dimensions and form, will be painted black to finish acceptably.

[drdoom]

Better pic taken after dinner break.

[Fridge]

Any reason why you didn't keep it al in the engine bay like @LOTUSMAN33 or was it just for directness?

It'll be interesting to see how EFi(?) improve the performance of the n/a Esprit. A chap on Facebook in the US seems to have done well.

I assume you're using throttle bodies etc. Will you still get the induction noise from the venturi?

[drdoom]

Had I been using the more compact wasted spark arrangement perhaps the coils might have been placed on the engine as seen in other such conversions. As the 4 coils would be quite bulky and prominent visually I feel it to be a better aesthetic with my solution, not to mention greater confidence in robust reliability. Form did follow function in this exercise. As to induction that's a touch complicated in my jurisdiction where truly favorable insurance rates are available for Collector cars, though with limited latitude for modifications. For now I've a set of 45DCOE's which I expect to utilise getting the car underway after restoration, contemplating hybrid EFI/carb fuel delivery for further tinkering if permitted.

By all accounts mapped ignition delivers worthwhile performance, and I'm more than pleased to get clear of anything distributor related. As to induction music that comes down to the acoustics of independant runner inlets and the airbox, so enjoyment awaits!

Cheers