Water pump replacement

[unity1]

Just when I thought I was getting there.

It seems I have a reasonable leak from the water pump area. In short I started the car for a few mins to check handbrake light after working on it and then noticed a puddle under the car around the holes in the undertray. Grab from phone indicates the water pump has been leaking for a while although no puddles before.

Can the pump be changed without removing the engine and how difficult is it.

I'm on a bit of a time schedule also is there any recommendations for someone who could do it and might aswell the timing belt Asap or within the next 2-6 weeks.

I have used barry in maldon before but would rather not again as he had the car for months with always reason why the car was not progressing.

[jonwat]

1 hour ago, unity1 said:

Can the pump be changed without removing the engine and how difficult is it.

Yes, not easy though as the timing belt has to come off

 

1 hour ago, unity1 said:

is there any recommendations for someone who could do it.

Might be an idea to tell us where you are located. 

[unity1]

Thanks. Yeah I suspected the timing belt would need to come off so thought it was operutune to replace it while at it.

East Essex, UK.

[Chillidoggy]

Looks like red coolant there. I suspect you should be using green, but check.

[Sparky]

Not too bad a job with engine insitu.  Even easier if a certain pump securing bolt has already been changed; the job could then be done, with care, without dismounting the cambelt.

Unlikely you'll get a pump off the shelf anywhere; instead you'll need that one rebuilt by someone knowledgeable and you need to factor in time for that.  I always use PNM for pump rebuilds.

[unity1]

1 hour ago, Chillidoggy said:

Looks like red coolant there. I suspect you should be using green, but check.

Car has always had red and I never questioned it before due to the Alu parts although will now check what is 'recommended'.

[unity1]

30 minutes ago, Sparky said:

Not too bad a job with engine insitu.  Even easier if a certain pump securing bolt has already been changed; the job could then be done, with care, without dismounting the cambelt.

Unlikely you'll get a pump off the shelf anywhere; instead you'll need that one rebuilt by someone knowledgeable and you need to factor in time for that.  I always use PNM for pump rebuilds.

That's slightly encouraging news although I doubt any of the bolts have been changed. I was going to call SJs today to gauge lead time for a replacement and decide if I'm to attempt to tackle it myself over the coming week. I should add I don't have a lift or pit so it'll be on axel stands with limited movement from below.

https://www.sjsportscars.com/parts-and-accessories/D912E9274J.htm

[Sparky]

I do them all on axle stands!  In fact I prefer it.

[Escape]

As above, it can be done in situ and without removing the timing belt IF the one bolt has been replaced. I've done it lying on the floor with limited room, though I'm not as hardcore as @Sparky and do prefer a lift. 😉 If your belt hasn't been replaced recently, you might as well while you're in there of course.

I always rebuild the pumps myself. You do need a press, or a good bottle jack and something heavy to wedge it too (a 20 ton crawler excavator was just the right height). SJ supplies the correct press tool and instructions with the rebuild kit. Just work carefully and methodically and it's not too hard.

[unity1]

2 hours ago, Chillidoggy said:

Looks like red coolant there. I suspect you should be using green, but check.

I've checked the manual and it states Shell safe plus or shell 402 neither of which I can find today to identify what a current equivalent would be or to verify Red is not compatible. My understanding and I happy to be corrected is that Red is aimed at systems with Aluminium part but in truth  as long as they are not mixed and changed every couple of years I would see an issue. Car was serviced excluding Cambelt (for reasons of the garage sodding me about with time wanted a stated extra 2 weeks which would have been a month) while having the carbs stripped and rebuilt.

 

[unity1]

@Escape @Sparky I doubt any bolts would have been replaced as I Know I haven't done it myself and cant think of an issue or jobs I've had done over the years that would have required  it. With your combined experience how likely would it achieved without removing the engine or most parts around it.

Just to explain my hesitation. A big push to get the car sorted recently has been to take my son to his prom around end of May (exact date not published yet) and been working on it since last summer. He's based his whole outfit around Lotus and the Green/Yellow scheme and obviously been helping with the body work etc. It was moving in the right direction until I started the car yesterday for a short time and ended up with a reasonable puddle under the car. Prior to this I'd had a couple of drips around the font hoses and put it down to amount of jacking and moving over the last few months which I tightened up last week and appeared to have solved. The puddle at the rear may have stared forming from last weekend although I know for sure there was nothing there last Saturday.

If I'm in any doubt of not being about to get this done in time I'll risk it and ensure I have pull up by the school early so I can check and top up and then tackle it once its all over. It is only a 10 minute drive however I foresee a line of traffic and could take a lot longer. and need to ensure I can have the car running for 30minutes at least.

I'm going to test that today, clean up and put a tray under the car, Ensure coolant is fully topped up and then run the car for at least 15 minutes or until the Fans come on while keeping an eye under the car.

*After speaking to SJ it was stated they would aim to have a refurb of my pump turned around in 24 hours so with postage could take 4 days from sending. I personally have about 8 to 10 days available to spend on the car and still have a multitude of other jobs to complete. I started fitting the carpets yesterday.

[Sparky]

100% doable insitu if you're at least a bit handy.  If the original bolts are holding the water pump on, then you'll need to remove the aux sprocket - prepare for a fight, but not always - to get at one of them.  If the pump has never been moved, then it's imperative that you tease those bolts out gently.  One breaks and you'll be pulling the engine again.  It's a pretty simple job once the belt and sprocket are out of the way,  Just be sure you're getting a good seal when replacing the pump!

While you're at it, have a good look at the water pump hoses; make sure they haven't been partly cut by the cam sprockets (common).

For reference, if I had a replacement pump in hand, this'd be completed in a day.

[Escape]

Yes, even without the cap head bolt it's doable in a day, including replacing the timing belt and rebuilding the pump. If it's your first time, it will probably take 2 days. I think I spent 1.5 day the first time (without a lift and having to improvise a press).

[red vtec]

3 hours ago, unity1 said:

*After speaking to SJ it was stated they would aim to have a refurb of my pump turned around in 24 hours so with postage could take 4 days from sending. I personally have about 8 to 10 days available to spend on the car and still have a multitude of other jobs to complete. I started fitting the carpets yesterday.

I was at SJ on Tuesday as they are recommissioning my car. I'm also in Essex, would have taken the part down for you.

[unity1]

Update

Regular drips seen from the bottom of the pump. Topped up the coolant, ran the car upto temp while monitoring the drips. What I found was the drips slowed and eventually stopped. Engine was running for almost 40 mins in the end and switched off once the fans switched on for the second time and temp was 95. No drips, after about an hour to cool down there was the occasional drip. Header tank level was down by half inch.

I will investigate further Sunday and as sparky suggestion check hoses etc asses and perhaps test the bolts. I'm actually hopeful I could make the prom and it's traffic which eases the urgency and risk somewhat.

View of pump from below with drips.

 https://photos.app.goo.gl/wCjqP5dt7X5AZE2S9

 

Drips in action.

 https://photos.app.goo.gl/svmg33AMTqHPGPk58

drips stopped

https://photos.app.goo.gl/buns7FpZ6w1QLatm8