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Gearbox Removal - Driveshaft Removal - Idiots Guide


Kez

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I'm at the stage where, the gearbox is poised to come out BUT I'm staring at the driveshafts and not wanting to go any further in fear of damaging something in removing - Anyone know of an idiots guide for the removal of them in order to get the box out? 

Handbook states ' use tool T000006078' to remove concentric pins , this is a pin punch, but what size?  And before I set to at any 'pins' where exactly are they? 

Cheers all. 

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  • Gold FFM

Do yourself an enormous favour and loosen the rubber boots, be prepared to catch a bit of grease, and pull the drive shaft spiders from their yokes. This takes seconds and allows you to do the pins on the bench.

Make sure you Mark the spiders and yokes for reassembly.

British Fart to Florida, Nude to New York, Dunce to Denmark, Numpty to Newfoundland.  And Shitfaced Silly Sod to Sweden.

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I'd listen to Sparky. However when I did this recently I just punched out the pins....you don't really need the official tool just a set of punches that are of a decent length and diameter. Punch out the inner pin part of the way, then punch out the outer one and they'll come out after a bit of hammering. 

 

I'm told the boot floor doesn't need to come out to do this, however I took the floor out (only 15 mins extra and you can have a poke about some other stuff while you're at it)

 

My advice when removing the pins is this: when you're approaching the end, be sure not to keep hammering so that you end up with the punch stuck in the driveshaft - most punches I've seen are thicker up top and at that point the punch will be stuck in the shaft whilst simultaneously pinched against side of the gearbox....not a cool situation to be in. 

 

If it SHOULD happen (ho hum!) and it's not too bad, use an allen key from beneath and gently tap out the punch... 

Vanya Stanisavljevic '91 Esprit SE | '97 XK8

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  • 2 weeks later...

I took the pins out, no drama so long as you use the right size punches. However, Sparky has a point, and if you do take the pins out and pull the spiders out, make sure you've drained the oil first.

Life is like a sewer, what you get out of it, depends on what you put into it. (Tom Leahrer)

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Parallel pin punches are available to remove the roll pins. You should really mark the orientation of the CV joint on the spline because if you replace them 180• out the new roll pins will jam half way. Also the roll pins should be 180• to each other so the gap in the pin is opposite in each case. The pin should be driven home and then sealed on the ends with silicone.

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  • 2 months later...

I've done this job, and you do indeed need to drain the oil if you're going to punch the pins out. As soon as you pop the shaft out, you'll get oil everywhere.

From memory, you need to undo the bottom track control arm from each hub, so you can then pull the wheel and use that as leverage to pop the driveshaft out.

 

Word from experience.. when you refit the roll pins (new ones) you do need to fit them 180 degrees opposing each other, but coat them in silicone first, and silicone over the tops of them when they've been refitted. Let the silicone set before refilling the gearbox with oil.

I didn't do this the first time and I had a load of gearbox oil drain out of the holes where the roll pins are. My gearbox now whines a fair bit, and I'm sure that's the reason.

 

Also, fit new driveshaft oil seals as well.. this should be a no brainer.

The manual says use Wellseal on them.. but I found if I did, there was no way I could get them in their holes for some reason! I actually made a tool from some steel tube so I could tap the new seals in uniformly, or they are just a nightmare to get in as they keep popping out.

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  • 2 years later...
On ‎17‎/‎11‎/‎2014 at 23:56, Sparky said:

Do yourself an enormous favour and loosen the rubber boots, be prepared to catch a bit of grease, and pull the drive shaft spiders from their yokes. This takes seconds and allows you to do the pins on the bench.

 

Make sure you Mark the spiders and yokes for reassembly.

Hi up Sparky

Could you please expand on above, as my inner rubber boot is split all the way round, once the shaft spiders and yokes are apart does the yoke being the cup bit pull out of the gearbox with a shaft then the roll pins can be punched out ,as looking at it punching the pins out insitu looks a pain in the harris

Cheers Glyn

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  • Gold FFM

Hi Glyn.  If you want to take the yokes off, you have to drive the pins out.  The method described just makes driving the pins out easier once the box is on the bench. With box insitu, you're stuck with it!

British Fart to Florida, Nude to New York, Dunce to Denmark, Numpty to Newfoundland.  And Shitfaced Silly Sod to Sweden.

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  • 5 years later...

Does anyone have a picture please of the drive shaft pins? Are they wheel or gearbox side? Any pictures would be helpful as I am about to remove my shafts on 1989 Turbo SE. Also can the shaft be detached from gearbox without hub movement? 

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  • Moderator

This is the drawing from the manual. The pins are at the gearbox side, very close to the casing.

image.thumb.png.442094e36c66b2061427cee0b3a42598.png

  • Like 1

I have made many mistakes in my life. Buying a multiple Lotus is not one of them.

 

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Thanks Escape, Very helpful, no sign of pins on mine, I have pulled back the rubber, I will post a picture to see if anyone can help, not done this before, so assume I am missing something obvious

Thanks Chillidog

Does the hub need removing or will it clear the gearbox with just top of hub swung out? Hope that makes sense?

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  • Moderator

The pins are not under the rubber boot, they're closer to the gearbox, where you can see the input shaft of the CV that slides over the gearbox output shaft.

You don't need to remove the hubs, with the top or bottom lose you should have sufficient movement to clear the output stubs.

I have made many mistakes in my life. Buying a multiple Lotus is not one of them.

 

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Does anybody have the torque settings for reassembling after head gasket? Also bolt loosening and tightening sequence please? 
 

1989 Lotus Esprit 2.2 Turbo SE 265HP

Edited by D2AUE
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Hi @D2AUE - You've asked this twice already and twice you've been told that all the info is in the service notes. If you've got this far into fiddling with the engine, you really, really could do with a copy. :)

It will save you bundles of time, and more than likely heartbreak and money too! 

https://www.thelotuscentreonline.co.uk/Esprit-Esprit-Turbo-Service-Notes

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For forum issues, please contact the Moderators.

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Hmmm.

Call me old-fashioned, but I believe if you own an Esprit and do your own maintenance, then having a copy of the Service Notes is a given. I say this for two reasons; firstly because they contain pretty much all that is required, and secondly because it saves time for the likes of me, and a fair few other helpful TLF members, trawling through our own copies to provide information which is contained within.

  • Like 2

Margate Exotics.

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Thank you for your previous info on the matter, the simple fact is I am on a budget and can’t afford a manual at this precise time. Thanks again tho, at least you offered your help. 

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1 hour ago, D2AUE said:

Who the hell do you think you are! I will ask as much as I like, don’t respond if you don’t have the answer to my question!!!

Hmmm....🤔

Never a good idea to piss off the CEO. Jus' sayin' like 😉

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