Ian's S4s refurb

[Chillidoggy]

Yes, it vents to atmosphere, finds it own coolant level within the expansion tank, and the coolant contracting in the system when it cools after the engine stops running will suck the previously expanded coolant back via overflow pipe that runs half way round the engine bay, keeping the header tank full, and drawing in air to the expansion tank.

This happens when the system is first filled, and run up. After that, and assuming there are no coolant leaks, the system should then work without further intervention, or topping up. If topping up is required, then there's a leak somewhere.

I hope that makes sense.

[steve930]

Ok I can see your theory, but I'll let you try it in practice 

[Chillidoggy]

Moving on, I bought a set of PNM's headlamp kit from Filip (Escape) on the forum, as I knew mine were not in particularly good condition. First job is to get the light pods raised, without any power, which I did by switching the headlamps on after removing the dipped beam relay and the sidelight fuses. I've started stripping out the old units, drilling out the rivets, and removing the back-plates.

As the new bases are individual, and thus not identical to the original Lotus ones (why is that, Pete?) it makes it more difficult to get them positioned correctly, and they are not a simple like-for-like replacement job. It didn't take long to realise that it is imperative that the base plate position is correct relative to the headlamp shroud, otherwise there could be a serious mismatch, and the shroud wouldn't fit. So the bases have to be aligned to the shroud and you can only do that by mounting the headlamps first.

Trouble is, if you rivet them in position, for sure, it won't be right, so I chose to bolt one, and screw the other, so they could be removed. Just as well I did, because they both need moving downwards to fit the shroud. Which is today's job. More later.

[eeyoreish]

Didn't you get the installation instructions from PNM?

My kit came with them and I didn't have any problems with the shroud alignment. If you want I can dig out the PDFs and email it to you?

[Chillidoggy]

Yes, I have the instructions, such as they are, but no doubt you were lucky that your car headlamp mounting holes weren't cut by the same Norfolk stumblebum that did mine. There are even differences in holes in my car pod to pod, too. My lights didn't fit the shroud to start with, and in order for a straightforward job you have to rely on the original alignment and hole spacing being correct.

If not, then a tedious process of trial and error follows, along with grinding of GRP, and filing of stainless steel, trust me on this one. The whole job for one side has taken me three hours, and I'm just about to start on the other side.

Bottom line? If I'd known what a ballache it was going to be, I would have manufactured duplicate mounting plates in stainless steel to the original pattern myself instead. Still, onwards and upwards........

[Chillidoggy]

Finally got there, and the shrouds are near as damn it in line and as aligned as possible. Pain of a job, but I had to do it. I need to get some new shroud screws, it's mix and match there, but I'll order some up later, and fit them post MOT.

[Sparky]

There are differences between pods that would cuddle your blood. I have felt the pain.

[Chillidoggy]

It's not all bad news, I have managed to replace the gear-lever rubber bellows without splitting it.

 

Replacing the heater flap vacuum valves and associated pipework under the dash is another matter and has been peppered with tiny screw-dropping scenarios.

I have now retired for beer and curry up the Indian ressie.

[Escape]

You probably have the earlier system with the separate charge cooler system, totally unconnected to the engine coolant system? Personally, I prefer that one, but don't like the idea that the charge cooler system has no level alarm on it.

 

On the SE and S4, there are two coolant level probes, one for the chargecooler tank and one for the engine coolant header tank, both connected to a low coolant level module that triggers the tell-tale light on the dashboard. So you do get a warning, but wont know whether it's because of low engine coolant, low chargecooler coolant or engine overheating (triggered by the ECU).

 

BTW, the headlamps look good!

 

Filip

[eeyoreish]

Yes, I have the instructions, such as they are, but no doubt you were lucky that your car headlamp mounting holes weren't cut by the same Norfolk stumblebum that did mine. There are even differences in holes in my car pod to pod, too. My lights didn't fit the shroud to start with, and in order for a straightforward job you have to rely on the original alignment and hole spacing being correct.

If not, then a tedious process of trial and error follows, along with grinding of GRP, and filing of stainless steel, trust me on this one. The whole job for one side has taken me three hours, and I'm just about to start on the other side.

Bottom line? If I'd known what a ballache it was going to be, I would have manufactured duplicate mounting plates in stainless steel to the original pattern myself instead. Still, onwards and upwards........

I guess I was lucky with mine then. Yes, there was some filing of GRP required but aside from that they fitted well. Discovering that I needed to completely overhaul my lifts and pivots though was another matter... Anyway, all done now and good as new.

For screws I bought stainless steel ones off ebay then etch primed and satin blacked. SJ do list black stainless ones but considerably more expensive than my DIY option.

[Chillidoggy]

I suppose it's fair to say that as the PNM kit is not a direct replacement, there's bound to be fitting required. I hadn't realised that, expecting a straight swop, and I hadn't realised quite how much there was to do to fit it.

I hadn't spotted the fact that the earlier cars had differing alarms, Filip. It sounds like it had the makings of a good system, shame they aren't separate alarms, but at least you know when you have a problem on one of the coolant circuits. I think it was a retrograde step when Lotus chose to use the white plastic header tank, and then connected the charge-cooling circuit in with the main cooling. If it wasn't for the fact that there's only the one level alarm, I would have manufactured a separate charge cooler tank, but I have enough to do already!

Neil, the black stainless steel screws are not expensive off eBay, I haven't ordered any yet, but from memory I think they're less a fiver for what I want, which is the flanged head posi. I just need to check the sizes first, otherwise sure as hell I'll order the wrong ones.

[Escape]

On my previous Esprit I also had a hard time getting the PNM headlamps aligned with the shrouds. So it was a relieve to see the one I bought from Mike already had all the hard work done (and very well I must add), so I only needed to swap RHD to LHD.

 

As for the cooling system, I also prefer the separate tanks. Would be even better if they were plastic instead of alu. To add to the information, mine has the blanking cap on the header tank and a 15psi pressure cap on the expansion tank. Which seems most logical to me, and corresponds to the MY specs.

 

Filip

[Chillidoggy]

Interesting about the cooling system, Filip. I expect it works just fine like that, which proves my earlier theory that it really doesn't matter whether you put the pressure cap on the header tank, or the expansion tank, just as long as it's the correct one.

[eeyoreish]

Neil, the black stainless steel screws are not expensive off eBay, I haven't ordered any yet, but from memory I think they're less a fiver for what I want, which is the flanged head posi. I just need to check the sizes first, otherwise sure as hell I'll order the wrong ones.

[Chillidoggy]

Had another good trouble-free run out today, down to Dungeness with the wife, fish and chips lunch. I know how to treat a girl properly, eh? We also surprised a Porsche Boxster S driver on the way home, who realised he didn't have it all his own way.

I think this thread has now run its course, so I won't be posting on it again, but hopefully it's been useful information for some TLF members.

[Sparky]

I'll miss you.

[Chillidoggy]

I'll write you letters.

[Chillidoggy]

Begging letters.

[Bibs]

At least they're not French letters...

[johnpwalsh]

It's been a good post, well done.

[Chillidoggy]

At least they're not French letters...

It can be arranged, but only if he wears the fishnets, and posts the photos.

[Loose Cannon]

**I sent the following PM to Ian and he suggested i post the replies as info**

Your engine removal thread has become my God.

Can I ask a few questions as the world doesn't need another engine removal thread, at least not by me;

1.    Where did you get your aircon compressor from & how much?
2.    Which Peugeot is the header tank off?
3.    Where did you get your turbo reconned, & how much?
4.    How the eff does the translator clamp come off the shaft? The nut is easy but is the bolt welded to the clamp?
5.    Did you use the silicon hose set from China? I see some of your coolant pipes are red now
6.    Did you change any rusty fittings like the turbo oil drain pipe?
7.    It looks like you set your translator a little lower from the pics on page 8, ie the link rod is under the bracket instead of on top, and the cable  joints on top of the translator ears instead of below. Any reason for that? Work better?

 

1.    A local chap, Keith Hall, I think it was about £290, you should also fit a new receiver/drier.
2.    205 GTI from memory, but the part number is the important thing. I got mine off eBay.
3.    Turbo Technics. £468. Read my comments, though.
4.    No, it's a bolt.
5.    Yes, but not all of them yet. They're not quite as good a fit over pipes as the rubber ones, but they do work, and you might have to double clamp them. I've not had any problems so far.
6.    Turbo oil drain pipe is NLA. I bead blasted it, and refitted it.
7.    I set the translator precisely to where it wanted to go, with gearbox in neutral, and gearstick angled slightly back before tightening. Wedge open the translator so it slides over the shaft when fitting it. I moved the tie-bar up or down to see if it made any difference to the gearchange before deciding where it was best, which from memory ended up to be on top.

 

 

[Chillidoggy]

Ha, ha! I meant start your own thread and post the info!

Anyway, I just found the part numbers for the Peugeot - header tank Part No. 1303 53, level sensor Part No. 1306 24.

If the turbo drain pipe is shot, then it'll be time to cobble something together. Thankfully mine was OK, but it would be a fabrication job in the future.

 

[Loose Cannon]

Yeah I know, but if not doing a step by step photo diary it just becomes a boring set of questions. I'll pull my finger out and start a thread FWIW.

Seems SJ Sportscars is cheapest for the Peugeot tank so far.

Pipe could wait TBH I just wanted to do as a "while you're in ther" job as it's so crusty. Shame the 90 degree bend original is bespoke as you can get other applications in stainless for less than £50

[Chillidoggy]

To be honest, if I'd had more time and inclination, I should have fabricated another turbo drain pipe, knowing you can't buy them any more. But there you go, we're all clever after the event.

Definitely make sure your coolant level sensor is in good order, mine was totally knackered, bunged up with brown gunge. I think they're also NLA, but you might get lucky.