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Time to start explaining


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Engine and chassis are looking really smart Barry, good job the gasket failed when it did before something else went bang, that pump could have jammed and took all your belts with it 🙄
You should be back on the road by June at this rate. 👍🏻👍🏻
 

Dave :) 

 

 

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Do or do not, there is no try! 

 

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  • Gold FFM

Thanks @LOTUSMAN33 - to be fair - yes I think that the head gasket saved this from being a lot worse.

one things for sure - that gasket would have failed at some point. It’s the Cheapo aftermarket crap gasket which has failed in the typical place - but also - I was told the head had been skimmed previously - but check out what was found on the fire ring of cylinder 3F3BB2659-ABEB-4728-980A-672BD7086B5C.thumb.jpeg.197a2a0b07d8c95e64a5a906cd9df97f.jpeg

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If a jobs worth doing it’s always best do it yourself, as owners we build with love and care where commercial restorers built for minimal cost. My bills on the mini have cover to £22000 now ( Don’t tell the wife 😂) but I know it’s done well, every drilled hole has been painted first and top quality wax oil used everywhere so should out live me.

Look forward to seeing it on the road again Barry with a smile on your face as you are pursued by wasps and bees in the Yellow peril 😁

Dave :) 

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thanks chap 👍

It’ll be back soon enough. I’ve a spreadsheet with all the expenditure on it to date. Its Gotta have what it needs - as I won’t be parting with this car.  I won’t be overly anal about cleaning everything spotlessly clean though - as this is a usable everyday car not a garage queen that’s just polished 👍😂

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  • Gold FFM

Have you changed the water pipe fitting on the turbo? I don't have that bent bit of pipe that comes out of the fitting on the side of the turbo. I've just got a short pipe fitting barb on mine that can't be more than 3/4" long.

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Norfolk Mustard S4s #1 :)

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  • Gold FFM

That’ll be my fault - whack up a picture of yours please - I reckon I’ve stuck them them in the wrong holes 🤭

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Here you go Barry.

DSCF1818.thumb.JPG.65b4d31329e03a04a821d638b4006a56.JPG

 

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1996 Esprit V8, 1998 Esprit V8 GT, 1999 Esprit S350 #002 (Esprit GT1 replica project), 1996 Esprit V8 GT1 (chassis 114-001), 1992 Lotus Omega (927E), 1999 Esprit V8SE, 1999 Esprit S350 #032, 1995 Esprit S4s, 1999 Esprit V8 GT (ex-5th Gear project), 1999 Esprit V8SE ('02 rear)

1999 S350 #002 Esprit GT1 replica

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12 hours ago, Barrykearley said:

Asbestos bit chucked in the skip.

I would be surprised if they were still using asbestos in the heat shields from 1993 on. The part numbers for the cam housing and LH damper top mount heat shields changed for the S4 onwards.

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  • Gold FFM

It looked suspiciously fibrous. I certainly wasn’t gonna crush it up and sniff it.  Either way - it’s now relocated. 

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  • Gold FFM

19576AAF-CB7A-4BF2-858A-79E5BFF86B16.thumb.jpeg.41411feffcd13b69461c333ece247165.jpeg

couple of blocks picked up today - ignore the nuts and washers - they will be swapped for threadlock, nylocks and locking nuts 

35E43AC6-B2EB-4251-92F6-21C31C1DBF58.thumb.jpeg.e34916590147f8603fe7540e3ff62ad9.jpeg

trial fitted - fits a dream. So another niggle sorted 

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On 11/05/2020 at 21:48, Barrykearley said:

Turbo on. Heat shield polished and modified slightly. Asbestos bit chucked in the skip.

 Just to clarify a point. The polished s/s part is a reflector. The asbestos bit is the heat shield..  There should be an air gap between them to also help dissipate heat..    Failure to fit the bit you chucked will result in the s/s reflector being able to come into contact with your leads..  This part WILL get very hot from the turbo, and WILL damage your leads over time.     Lotus would not have gone to the cost and trouble of having it made and fitted if it was not essential ...   If you choose not to use the actual part , then i strongly suggest using an alternative..     It  will save ignition issues at later stages  

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  • Gold FFM

All belts now on and tensioned. Heat shield sorted. Engine pretty much ready to lump back in once it’s been steam cleaned 0E9424F5-2C79-4D2B-95CF-96C5D0F09E1B.thumb.jpeg.6b3f610caf204df0541732f8394d33d2.jpeg

fettling with intake this afternoon - I’m changing the setup there. So new header tank ordered along with a catch tank. managed to extract this. A nice new airfilter unit ordered as well.

3AD8D245-8A00-49D7-BB1E-6904FF7676FB.thumb.jpeg.e149e8b24cc9d291fd834927b14d7e2b.jpeg

Chassis chap is coming up tomorrow so things are slowly moving.

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Chassis man has spent some considerable time this morning measuring and checking - all is good. I need to order some shims :animier: as once the body is back on he wants the car to set up the geo.

tomorrow I shall remove the pipes up the chassis and sort nice stainless replacements 

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  • Gold FFM

Dunno. I’d say not since many header tanks are stainless - and the top bendy pipe that’s been on it 2 years isn’t showing any signs.

my stainless fabricator man said rip out the ally as it’s rubbish in cooling systems cos it corrodes

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Hi @Barrykearley when you say the chassis man came this morning, that sounds jolly convenient. I was expecting you would need to pop it on a jig and check it that way. Is this a special service offered by your chassis man or something that is quite common? Was it an expensive check?

cheers

-Chris

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  • Gold FFM

He used something called a trammel guage and years of experience - he’s a chap whom looks after straightening hill climbers and the local rally boys cars - along with some very interesting expensive stuff that tends not to get photographed bent 😂. I learnt a hell of a lot from him - he had all the lotus dimensions to refer to. 
 

you just need a local expert - but essentially it’s very obvious watching him do his stuff if something is wrong. The expertise and experience is what you need if you need to correct it. If you wished to employ his services I’m sure he would oblige.
 

this car has been cat listed - and has had a whack. When I did the rear bushes sometime ago - the drivers side trailing arm bolt was very bent - took 40+ tons to force it out. New trailing arm as the old one was deflected. Anyway long story short they bodged it - the trailing arm just needs to be correctly shimmed 😬.  I simply had to know the chassis was right before continuing the rebuild. There was too many unknowns and I had to draw a line under it and move forwards properly. While it was running I never got round to it!!

 

today - chassis pipes - I’ve been putting this off for some covid related stupid reasons - total lack of motivation - but this morning I’m re-energised. 2F143706-6D72-47F7-9484-06676DB2D5DD.jpeg.acbfb9ce7185f0197599ba09983d0635.jpeg
 

this is typical of what the ends look like 

EFAE5BBE-6CF5-4A9A-8544-0C007B4D942A.jpeg.608a895e51b29c6c30b0389918420ef0.jpeg

when they are cleaned with a wire brush - the issues are obvious2350E1A7-5A1F-44D2-ACE9-530A47CB5650.jpeg.f5b67071af77d691d527efdcb111b83f.jpeg

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  • Gold FFM

Dunno. These are shagged though - although I’m sure could be repaired with some of those soldering rods you can buy.

however - I like shiney new things - so stainless it is. My local source had none sadly in the spares stock - so I’ve grabbed some from a supplier and parted with the princely sum of £46. It’s now in a heap at my the chap whom fettles stuff like this for me to form the ends. Hopefully he can do them later tonight - as I’m fed up😂

on the plus side - that’s £250 saved - down side - stainless is a bit heavier than ally - so a mental note to take a dump before every drive 👍

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  • Gold FFM

He’s done the pipes 🤗 just gotta finish my lazy morning corona lockdown coffee and I’ll whip and get them. I’ve never lazed in bed so much - god I can’t wait to get back to work next week and do some real graft.

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