Alunox exhaust manifold support mount - needed?

[RobinB5]

Wanted to replace my rear cam end oil seals, o-rings ordered from SJS. Easy job apparently unless you have an Alunox exhaust manifold whereupon you have to remove the rod that links to the exhaust manifold to the heat shield plate:

Buggered if I could remove the lower bolt. Insufficient tools + weak arms.  Wanted to remove this end (left), top of support rod (right):

Question: as and when I can get that rod off, is it really required subsequently? What is the design intent of linking the top of the exhaust manifold with the cam end? 

[910Esprit]

The general opinion seems to be that its ornamental,   There are a number of owners that have discarded it.   But I'd personally choose to replace it, as its already there. 

[snowrx]

I'm sure the thought was to support the weight of the cast iron turbo (+exit pipe) as the thin pipe manifold went through heat cycles to prevent possible cracking or distortion. The charge cooler cars would have a bit of support from above, but otherwise it's on the manifold to do the job. Rather than guess the worst case stress a red-hot manifold might be under going over a large bump at speed, adding a support might be prudent to avoid callbacks.

Mine is supported from below with a tab under the turbine housing bolt as I generally distrust female threads on exhaust manifolds.

[tomcattom]

That support rod simply wouldn't fit on mine. Turbo sits nearer the head on my S4s than with the original cast manifold and there simply isn't the room to get the correct angle for the rod to clear the turbo and line up with the mounting points at each end.

Sounds like plenty of people are running without it and having no issues. Haven't run mine properly yet though since fitting it.

[Barrykearley]

Some will say that if you remove that the turbo will fall off.
 

They will be talking utter bollocks though.

Not fitted on my S4s - I’m sure I have it in a tray in the cupboard if you want a new one

[Chillidoggy]

I’ve run my Alunox for nearly 15,000 miles without it and nothing has fallen off.

[Sparky]

Same here; superfluous.

[Barrykearley]

@RobinB5

its yours for the princely sum of bugger all 👍

[Jacques]

Same here. Never installed it, as it did not fit. Works perfectly without, and if it really came to that, one could argue that the installation is better without. Anyway, I have mine in the drawer as well, together with some of their experimentation of bracketry together with some other parts that did not fit and which also did not work.

The manifold though, once corrected for it's imprecise welding, is superb.

None of the high temperature K-nuts I installed ever left the building as Elvis would have it.

Kind regards,

Jacques

[snowrx]

9 hours ago, Barrykearley said:

@RobinB5

its yours for the princely sum of bugger all 👍

Being stainless, it's probably worth bugger all plus postage to have on hand for another project! I hate to think what it added to to cost of the manifold, compounding VAT or customs duty fees

[Erikl]

I think I read that another brand of manifold had some issues long time ago with welds cracking?  This caused some concern so the strut was added?

I run it on my ALunox inspired custom manifold for peace of mind.  Its a long lever arm.

[RobinB5]

Thanks all. As and when I manage to get it off, it'll stay off.

[Erikl]

Some suggestions for removing - 

- spray down with a suitable penetrant

- remove inner fender liner for access (looks like you may have done this)

- Buy an allen wrench that works on a socket wrench if you dont have one.

- be gentle, if it wont loosen try warming the car up and try it when its warm - be careful not to burn your self. 

- Its easy to strip the heads on those bolts

[MrDangerUS]

On 23/04/2021 at 13:13, tomcattom said:

That support rod simply wouldn't fit on mine. Turbo sits nearer the head on my S4s than with the original cast manifold and there simply isn't the room to get the correct angle for the rod to clear the turbo and line up with the mounting points at each end.

Alunox header places turbo closer to the engine, causing interference with the support strut attachment "ears".

Requires grinding off some material.  Also, the lower coolant spigot interferes with the heat shield. Grind off all extra metal to round it off or re-tap the end allowing for one extra turn.